Elephants and Lemmings
So the next day, we got the bus back into the city and comandeered a rickshaw to take us to Varkala. The rickshaw ride was the longest yet, at one and a half hours. Great fun, but also a little hair-raising when dodging traffic on the highways! oh well, this is India after all. The poor rickshaw wallah didnt realise the distance (looking back, I dont think he had ever been out of Trivandrum) and undercharged us by about 200 rupees.
I had heard a lot about Varkala from the people at Om beach - so I was expecting something similar - and so, was surprised when it turned out to be nearly as touristy as Kovalam. The beach is at the bottom of a cliff, upon which is a fair village of hotels, restaurants, shops, internet cafe's and bizarre other things, like a dental hospital (for tourists). The whole place was like a ghost town. Not sure what to make of it, we checked into a really beautiful little hotel (for which Nele did her best blonde blue eyed negociation resulting in a HUGE discount!) and spent the rest of the day chilling out. We watched sunset and the resulting HUGE thunder and lightening storm from the top of the cliff, and then ran into a girl we met at Om -small world.
As you can probably gather, I am now a little bored of the beaches and am itching to get exploring again, so it was by a stroke of fate that I got a call from Vishal in Delhi (remember him from the beginning of my trip - he is the DI ground ops man in India) who told me that my mate from DI Rosalind was about to appear in India on a FAM trip to Nagarhole NP near Mysore. If I wanted to join in the FAM, all I needed to do was get to Mysore...tomorrow!
Of course, I needed no further encouragement, so I hastily packed my bags and booked the overnight bus to Mysore. Luckily, almost to order, one of Nele's Indian admirers had appeared in Varkala - so he was going to keep her busy while I was away!!
The overnight bus from Trivandrum to Mysore was an interesting experience to say the least. Indian wandering hands made an appearance again, and so I ended up making a scene, hurting the perpetrator and getting him chucked off the bus. Lovely! I arrived in Mysore (which is a BEAUTIFUL city) little worse for the wear, and so bought my way into a posh hotel to wash and await Rozzer and her little band of clients.
Fully refreshed and fabulous I put on my best threads and waltzed into lunch with Rozzer, Vishal and the clients as if I owned the place. Just like the old days! Roz was very kind and said I looked almost like a native now! It was REALLY good to see her and catch up a bit. We shared an Ambassedor for the drive to Nagarhole, and gossiped the whole way!
Nagarhole NP is in the wilderness between Mysore and the coast, and so it has very much more of a lush feel to it compared to the other parks I have been to - lots of green everywhere, also lakes, rivers and bamboo forests. Although Tigers are present and quite prolific here, we were really here for the Elephants (Rozzer and the clients are recce-ing for DI's new Ele study trip) Roz was accompanied by one of India's best Ele researchers - who was excellent and very interesting to talk to.
I spent an idyllic three days in Nagarhole, gossiping, eating, going on safari and seeing wonderful things. Nagarhole has a large lake in the middle of it where Ele's go to drink and bathe, so each evening we went by boat to the area where they appeared. It was magical watching the sun setting over a herd of wild Ele's. The lake also had many beautiful birds - some which I had failed to see at Bharatupur - like Painted Storks and beautiful Ibis. In addition to that, the lake is famous for coracle fishing - so seeing the tribal people rolling thier coracles to the water, loading them up and launching into the croc infested waters was treat. I wanted to have a go too, but the lodge's coracles were a bit mankey - dont fancy taking a dip in the lake...
The only blighter on the time there was the weather. Each evening just after sunset, a HUGE thunder and lightening storm would hit, including a huge deluge of rain....COLD rain....REALLY COLD rain! A bit of a bummer if you are out in the middle of the lake on a small boat! Three nights running, and one morning, we got absolutely soaked. It also kept the animals in hiding a bit, so of course the clients complained! haha.
The other cool thing about the camp was that it was presided over by an elderly gentleman called Col. John Wakefield, or Papa John to his friends. He is an old British Raj family who has been looking after the NP for generations (of course, like all these people, it started when he was a hunter...he killed his first tiger at the age of 9 yrs!) The first night we were there, we were requested to visit Papa John on his veranda for pre dinner drinks. He is an absolutely lovely old man, who is surrounded by photos of beautiful animals and beautiful people who have visited the lodge, including his most favourite, Goldie Hawn. Lots of amusing stories and tales from him. He had also shown Sai Baba (the most famous guru in India) around the park. This interested me, as we are going to try and see Sai Baba in the next week or so. Talking to Papa John, I mentioned it, and he said he would pull some strings for me and get me a private viewing! This would be like a private chat with the Dalai Lama. WOW! Papa John did duely phone up Sai Baba's manager, and has given him our names - so hopefully, next week Ill have something marvellous to report!
Anyway, after my lovely time in the park, I returned to Bangalore with Vishal. Enroute we visited a small bird sanctury, which was a really nice addition. LOTS of birds very close up - so even I, with my humble camera, could get good pictures.
In Bangalore, I managed to purchase a train ticket to Kochin, which was another overnight maneauver. Trains are MUCH better than busses, as you are in the upper class, and so no-one talks to you, let alone bothers you! yay! time to read my book. In Kochin, I had to decide whether to spend the night or whether to just do some sightseeing and then head down to Aleppy, in readiness of meeting Nele to go to the Ashram we are heading for. I dumped my stuff in the left luggage and headed out for a days sightseeing.
Kochin is the capital of the Kerala backwaters. It was originally just the Fort Kochin area, and now has expanded to include a huge new city called Ernakulam, which is one of the most outwardly wealthy places I have come across in all of India. Its like a very smart clean version of Mumbai. Big towering new housing complexes and lots of huge shopping malls with Lacoste, Gucci and Armani shops. Very wierd. The whole place is right on a network of waterways which is the start of the backwaters. Kochin is also a huge port for freight and fishing, so, on the waterfront there is a strange mixture of large iundustrial port activity - container ships being loaded, fishing boats with huge nets and large navy ships, as well as the more traditional things like canoes, dragon boats and small rowing fishing boats. Interesting to say the least.
I had read in the book that the Fort Kochin area was frozen in 60's India, since the government banned new development -so I was interested to visit. This meant a 2 rupee ferry ride across the water - how exciting. I was the only westerner on the ferry as it ploughed its way through the water towards this low lying green looking penninsular. Of course everyone wanted to talk to me, but luckily, a passing group of dolphins averted thier attention! I was feeling MINGING after an overnight on the train in 35 degree heat and no shower!
Fort Kochin was exactly as expected - a beautiful little place with artistically decaying buildings, old style fishing boats, and of course, the emblem of Kerala -the huge cantilevered chinese fishing nets all along the beach. Swaying palmtrees above your head and dolphins at play - marvellous. I sat on the shore overlooking the fishing nets and spent time over a freshly squeezed orange juice...now this is why I came to India! I spent a lovely (and very hot) afternoon wandering the streets taking photos and genterally enjoying myself, then headed back to the ferry port to catch a ride back to the main jetty in the city. Lovely!
After a 30 minute sweaty fretful queue for a ticket, I suceeded in boarding the correct train to Aleppy - the town which is neares to Amma's Ashram. Disaster was closely averted when the train I was meant to be getting was changed platform without notice. I just saw everyone else who was waiting jump after an announcement and then jump like lemmings off the platform onto the railway lines and clambering up into an adjacent waiting train. In a split second I decided to do the same...rucksac and all. Not the sort of thing you could get away with in Paddington. Anyway, I managed to scale the side of the trian just in time to launch into the ladies carriage as it pulled off. Shaking and sweating, I managed to stow my stuff and calm down. The rest of the journey was very comfortable. No men in the carriage, thus no trouble, and a long hand gesture conversation with the 6 ladies sitting next to me. I was also given several babies to hold and was asked to take numerous photos of my happy smiling companions- who immediately put on the straight indian "photo face" as soon as the camera was directed at them - only to break into huge smiles and giggles when they saw thier image in the back of the camera!
We all tipped out at Aleppy - most of my women traveller friends were also going there - and bade goodbye to each other. A short rickshaw ride and two hotel inspections later, I found myself in a charming crumbling heritage hotel in the centre of Alleppy, run by a host of buff young Indians. Who could ask for more! haha
So here I am, awaiting Nele's arrival tonight. Tomorrow we tackle the backwaters enroute to see Amma.
I had heard a lot about Varkala from the people at Om beach - so I was expecting something similar - and so, was surprised when it turned out to be nearly as touristy as Kovalam. The beach is at the bottom of a cliff, upon which is a fair village of hotels, restaurants, shops, internet cafe's and bizarre other things, like a dental hospital (for tourists). The whole place was like a ghost town. Not sure what to make of it, we checked into a really beautiful little hotel (for which Nele did her best blonde blue eyed negociation resulting in a HUGE discount!) and spent the rest of the day chilling out. We watched sunset and the resulting HUGE thunder and lightening storm from the top of the cliff, and then ran into a girl we met at Om -small world.
As you can probably gather, I am now a little bored of the beaches and am itching to get exploring again, so it was by a stroke of fate that I got a call from Vishal in Delhi (remember him from the beginning of my trip - he is the DI ground ops man in India) who told me that my mate from DI Rosalind was about to appear in India on a FAM trip to Nagarhole NP near Mysore. If I wanted to join in the FAM, all I needed to do was get to Mysore...tomorrow!
Of course, I needed no further encouragement, so I hastily packed my bags and booked the overnight bus to Mysore. Luckily, almost to order, one of Nele's Indian admirers had appeared in Varkala - so he was going to keep her busy while I was away!!
The overnight bus from Trivandrum to Mysore was an interesting experience to say the least. Indian wandering hands made an appearance again, and so I ended up making a scene, hurting the perpetrator and getting him chucked off the bus. Lovely! I arrived in Mysore (which is a BEAUTIFUL city) little worse for the wear, and so bought my way into a posh hotel to wash and await Rozzer and her little band of clients.
Fully refreshed and fabulous I put on my best threads and waltzed into lunch with Rozzer, Vishal and the clients as if I owned the place. Just like the old days! Roz was very kind and said I looked almost like a native now! It was REALLY good to see her and catch up a bit. We shared an Ambassedor for the drive to Nagarhole, and gossiped the whole way!
Nagarhole NP is in the wilderness between Mysore and the coast, and so it has very much more of a lush feel to it compared to the other parks I have been to - lots of green everywhere, also lakes, rivers and bamboo forests. Although Tigers are present and quite prolific here, we were really here for the Elephants (Rozzer and the clients are recce-ing for DI's new Ele study trip) Roz was accompanied by one of India's best Ele researchers - who was excellent and very interesting to talk to.
I spent an idyllic three days in Nagarhole, gossiping, eating, going on safari and seeing wonderful things. Nagarhole has a large lake in the middle of it where Ele's go to drink and bathe, so each evening we went by boat to the area where they appeared. It was magical watching the sun setting over a herd of wild Ele's. The lake also had many beautiful birds - some which I had failed to see at Bharatupur - like Painted Storks and beautiful Ibis. In addition to that, the lake is famous for coracle fishing - so seeing the tribal people rolling thier coracles to the water, loading them up and launching into the croc infested waters was treat. I wanted to have a go too, but the lodge's coracles were a bit mankey - dont fancy taking a dip in the lake...
The only blighter on the time there was the weather. Each evening just after sunset, a HUGE thunder and lightening storm would hit, including a huge deluge of rain....COLD rain....REALLY COLD rain! A bit of a bummer if you are out in the middle of the lake on a small boat! Three nights running, and one morning, we got absolutely soaked. It also kept the animals in hiding a bit, so of course the clients complained! haha.
The other cool thing about the camp was that it was presided over by an elderly gentleman called Col. John Wakefield, or Papa John to his friends. He is an old British Raj family who has been looking after the NP for generations (of course, like all these people, it started when he was a hunter...he killed his first tiger at the age of 9 yrs!) The first night we were there, we were requested to visit Papa John on his veranda for pre dinner drinks. He is an absolutely lovely old man, who is surrounded by photos of beautiful animals and beautiful people who have visited the lodge, including his most favourite, Goldie Hawn. Lots of amusing stories and tales from him. He had also shown Sai Baba (the most famous guru in India) around the park. This interested me, as we are going to try and see Sai Baba in the next week or so. Talking to Papa John, I mentioned it, and he said he would pull some strings for me and get me a private viewing! This would be like a private chat with the Dalai Lama. WOW! Papa John did duely phone up Sai Baba's manager, and has given him our names - so hopefully, next week Ill have something marvellous to report!
Anyway, after my lovely time in the park, I returned to Bangalore with Vishal. Enroute we visited a small bird sanctury, which was a really nice addition. LOTS of birds very close up - so even I, with my humble camera, could get good pictures.
In Bangalore, I managed to purchase a train ticket to Kochin, which was another overnight maneauver. Trains are MUCH better than busses, as you are in the upper class, and so no-one talks to you, let alone bothers you! yay! time to read my book. In Kochin, I had to decide whether to spend the night or whether to just do some sightseeing and then head down to Aleppy, in readiness of meeting Nele to go to the Ashram we are heading for. I dumped my stuff in the left luggage and headed out for a days sightseeing.
Kochin is the capital of the Kerala backwaters. It was originally just the Fort Kochin area, and now has expanded to include a huge new city called Ernakulam, which is one of the most outwardly wealthy places I have come across in all of India. Its like a very smart clean version of Mumbai. Big towering new housing complexes and lots of huge shopping malls with Lacoste, Gucci and Armani shops. Very wierd. The whole place is right on a network of waterways which is the start of the backwaters. Kochin is also a huge port for freight and fishing, so, on the waterfront there is a strange mixture of large iundustrial port activity - container ships being loaded, fishing boats with huge nets and large navy ships, as well as the more traditional things like canoes, dragon boats and small rowing fishing boats. Interesting to say the least.
I had read in the book that the Fort Kochin area was frozen in 60's India, since the government banned new development -so I was interested to visit. This meant a 2 rupee ferry ride across the water - how exciting. I was the only westerner on the ferry as it ploughed its way through the water towards this low lying green looking penninsular. Of course everyone wanted to talk to me, but luckily, a passing group of dolphins averted thier attention! I was feeling MINGING after an overnight on the train in 35 degree heat and no shower!
Fort Kochin was exactly as expected - a beautiful little place with artistically decaying buildings, old style fishing boats, and of course, the emblem of Kerala -the huge cantilevered chinese fishing nets all along the beach. Swaying palmtrees above your head and dolphins at play - marvellous. I sat on the shore overlooking the fishing nets and spent time over a freshly squeezed orange juice...now this is why I came to India! I spent a lovely (and very hot) afternoon wandering the streets taking photos and genterally enjoying myself, then headed back to the ferry port to catch a ride back to the main jetty in the city. Lovely!
After a 30 minute sweaty fretful queue for a ticket, I suceeded in boarding the correct train to Aleppy - the town which is neares to Amma's Ashram. Disaster was closely averted when the train I was meant to be getting was changed platform without notice. I just saw everyone else who was waiting jump after an announcement and then jump like lemmings off the platform onto the railway lines and clambering up into an adjacent waiting train. In a split second I decided to do the same...rucksac and all. Not the sort of thing you could get away with in Paddington. Anyway, I managed to scale the side of the trian just in time to launch into the ladies carriage as it pulled off. Shaking and sweating, I managed to stow my stuff and calm down. The rest of the journey was very comfortable. No men in the carriage, thus no trouble, and a long hand gesture conversation with the 6 ladies sitting next to me. I was also given several babies to hold and was asked to take numerous photos of my happy smiling companions- who immediately put on the straight indian "photo face" as soon as the camera was directed at them - only to break into huge smiles and giggles when they saw thier image in the back of the camera!
We all tipped out at Aleppy - most of my women traveller friends were also going there - and bade goodbye to each other. A short rickshaw ride and two hotel inspections later, I found myself in a charming crumbling heritage hotel in the centre of Alleppy, run by a host of buff young Indians. Who could ask for more! haha
So here I am, awaiting Nele's arrival tonight. Tomorrow we tackle the backwaters enroute to see Amma.
posted by Abster at 5:19 am
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