In the Jungle, in the, in the Jungle (note the Proidgy quote)
Namaste!
After a little break away from electricity and phones in the Jungle, Im BACK (you will all be very glad to hear !)
I have had one of the most wonderful wildlife odysseys ever - the Jungles of MP have really come up trumps. As you all know, this section of my trip was a little bit of work as well as holiday, as I visited the parks that DI work in most for thier tiger study tours and tiger safari's - Bandavgargh and Panna in Madyha Predesh.
When I left Delhi after we last spoke, I took a chair car train to Jhansi in MP, where I was cordially met by a lovely driver who whizzed me off to my first destination Ochha. Ochha is a picturesque little town on a river which has a large fort and some interesting temples. The main reason for visiting there is to break the journey to the National parks (the roads in MP are really really bad - as you start experiencing really rural undeveloped areas - mostly they are dust tracks. ) I stayed at the BundKand riverside resort, which was a delightful newly built copy of a heritage hotel. It consisted of twenty or so rooms surrounding a large courtyard of formal gardens. Each room was decorated in traditional style, and the main showpiece of the hotel was the fabulous blue tiled restaurant. I was hosted by a rather strange young man (the Maitre'D) and an older gentleman who was the manager. They both were rather distracted because a large film crew were also staying -shooting a Bollywood style soap powder advert! It was the stuff of dreams - chaos reigning... tens of runners and camera men all revolving around the actors being really cheesy. Even the Hotel manager got a bit part....unfortunately, they didnt need a buxom English girl...although I tried to get into the shots by walking across behind them alot....didnt work...just got told off!! haahahaha
The hotel and the area were a nice relaxing overnight..its really nice to be a DI client I decided...the beds were heavenly!!
Next day my driver reappeared to chauffer me to the first national park I was visiting - Panna. The drive was long and bumpy, so by the time I arrived at Ken River Lodge, I was very pleased to have a lovely hot shower and a chill out. I met a tour leader from an oldies adventure company in Canada, and we went on a wildlife walk with one of the guides....we didnt see much though -we were yakking too much I think...oops.
The next couple of days were filled with exciting wildlife adventures. I met with "our people" on the ground - Shakar the jungle cat researcher, Sanjay the Nepalese guide from Chitwan NP in Nepal, Vinny the camp owner and conservation visionary, and all the rest of the crew. Very nice to put names to faces after talking about them all the time at DI and not knowing them.
Most days I got up at 05;30hrs to go into the NP at opening in the hope of seeing the elusive Tigger and other animals. We were really lucky with other wildlife most of the days, as the jungle there is really beautiful and prolific. I saw Jungle cat, many types of deer, many types of bird, and finally, after many days of searching, a large male tiger. He was beautiful, but he skedaddled so quickly I didnt get a picture of him. He was HUGE though, and I got a bit windy in case he approached us. Mind you, like all wildlife he was off at the first oppotunity. The Jungle itself is very interesting in this neck of the woods - its a really dry desciduous (sp?) forest, which is sparse and only just supporting a very fragile eco-system, and all the time is threatened by outside preassure of domestic animals grazing within the park lands (like goats and cows stripping all the edible grass and greenery)
At Ken river, I also went on a boat trip on the river to spot Crocs -of which there were many. Very cool. ALSO, we spent a night at a smaller more modest lodge in the jungle from where we did a night safari in the Jeep. We were awesomely lucky with that - seeing a Sloth bear - which is very very elusive - up cloase. Also we saw Jackals and two different species of Civets. I liked the Palm Civet - a bit like a Jungle version of Howard. CUTE! One of the highlights of the time in Panna was riding on the top of a beautiful elephant though the jungle. SO WONDERFUL! Also, another hightlight must have been hearing a leopard roaring and growling really close to us one night - didnt see him, but his noise was really enchanting.
Surprisingly for me, MP is getting REALLY COLD, so I was suffering a bit. I managed to get a cold and also to turn my stomach to water after the night safari by getting so cold. Me being me decided that my trouble was DEFINATELY dysentary from Agra, and that I was going to DIE. But, after taking to using more clothes, and eating less, I was cured...
On my last afternoon at Ken, I visited the nearby town of Kajaraho, at which are some of the most impressive restored temple complexes in India. They are known for thier naughty graphic sexual carvings on the outside of the temples (it was one of the places where the Karma Sutra came from) An interesting visit indeed. Never knew they did THAT sort of thing a few centuries ago!!!
After fond farewells to the crew at Ken River, I was transported in a very swish land cruiser to my next destination Bandavgagh NP 7 hours south of Panna. The drive was very pleasant as it was through beautiful rural India. It was lovely to see all the people tending thier paddy and dahl fields with traditional methods - like Ox ploughs and by hand. I did really feel the stark contrast of my own comfortable life (encapsulated in this land cruiser) compared to thiers. They couldnt even see me (the cruiser had black windows) but they were still curious - looking at the vehicle as we swooshed past. I couldnt decide if I liked that or not. Not most probably.
Anyway, got to Kings lodge on the edge of the Bandavgargh NP without too much trouble. The lodge is still under construction, and so I was a little bit of a guinea pig. After seeing the room, I was well pleased to be a pig of Guinea! I was in a beautiful brand spanking new cabana room with all very minimalist fittings etc...AND it had a BATH!!!! My first one in India...so it was only a matter of minutes before I was in it enjoying a sumptuous bubble bath. WICKED!
The lodge is run by a wonderful newly wed couple Hutsi the naturalist and is cool urbane new generation Indian wife Gori, who takes care of the hotel and its workings. Hutsi and Gori told me all about the park and its reputation for being one of the best tiger hangouts in the country - I couldnt wait to get into the park!
So, bright and early next morning we were off into the park... which is slightly greener and more lush than Panna, but only just. Bandavgagh is also suffering from encroachment from the outside world, and this is evident at the AMOUNT of wildlife you can see - its all crushed into a small area. This is very good for sightings, but not too good for the wildlife in the end - as it could lead to interbreeding, and then extinction if its left to go to its logical end.
Anyway during the 4 days I went into the park, I had 14, yes, 14 different tiger sightings!!! MOST AWESOME! We saw tigers from the jeep and also from Elephant back as well (ele's often get cloaser to Tigers than the jeeps, because the tigers are not scared of ele's - so they use ele rides to get really great viewings.)
On one day - we saw TWO sets of mum and two cubs in the morning - from jeep and from ele, and then in the afternoon, we saw a different set, with older cubs - drinking at a water hole. I have some EXCELLENT pics of all three tigers with each other...truly amazing. Then, on the way out of the park, we saw the cubs from the morning play fighting with each other - really snarling and growling, and on thier hind legs rearing up! just the stuff of dreams.
Next day we saw the mum and cubs again...and HEARD dad too - WHAT a noise...he was positively roaring into the park...and BOY did that noise go straight through you!! Terrifying, but totally electrifying too. We didnt see him, but we saw his poo and his footprints - both giant!! big boy!
My experience at Bandavgargh was really really special - and I wont forget it in a hurry.
On the last night at the lodge, the old Sadhu who is also the gate man, came to entertain us with his songs and dancing. They guy was about 70, has a long beard and a balding head, and is constantly stoned! he banged things and shook his special Sadhu instrument (which looks like a big sword) and sung his heart out by the camp fire. The staff then joined in and sang us lots of songs - really a wonderful evening. The climax was when the gatekeeper did this amazing pogo dance on one leg - apparently its like Shiva, the god of all gods in Hindu - he bounces on one leg and smokes pot when he gets REALLY pissy with humans and how rubbish we are!
Anyway, I was very sad to leave Bandavgargh - as I had become great friends with Gori and Hutsi - I hope I can see them again one day.
I was met by another driver who was going to take me to the nearest station (Katni) which was 2 hours drive away. He turned up looking like John Travolta - in all white - white flares and even cuban heels! Amazing! The journey was uneventful except for a freaky feeling I had when we went through a toll both on the highway - I thought I recognised the guy taking the tolls. I did, he was Evil Indian Bert from Bert and Ernie (Sesame Street). The likeness was so great I wanted to get a picture of him, but couldnt get away with it.....
When we got to Katni, it transpired that my train was 4 hours late (and so was now departing at 2300hrs - freezing!) John Travolta waited with me on the station! dear of him. While I was waiting he plumped me into the UPPER CLASS waiting room, which was bare and sparse, but a little bit warmer than the rest of the station. I kept myself amused watching the toilet cleaning crew, who were doing by far the most minging job in the station, but were dressed like Miami vice - in pale yellow bodywarmer style jumpers and WHITE shoes.
Anyway, finally got onto the train and embarked on my 20 hour journey to Mumbai. The trip was OK except for the ice blast airconditioning and also the annoying girl in the bunk below me (she was american) singing DIDO in an "im so great at singing" voice under her breath.....for 8 hours..... I ended up wrapping my blanket round my head to make make-shift ear coverings.
On arriving in Mumbai, I was adopted by a nice porter who helped me put my stuff into the cloakroom for a couple of hours before it was time to get on the next 20 hour train down to Goa. I managed to explore a little bit around the station, but it was rush hour, and I didnt want to get too lost - so I retreated to the ladied waiting room.....which was also full of screaming kids...and men....
Anyway, at the appointed time, the porter came back for me and helped me get my luggage back, and then found the right train for me. He carried my stuff ( and there is a LOT of it now!) and put me into the right berth and everything. Lovely! This train was better because I was sharing my booth with a lovely Indian English couple who were very quiet, and also a batty old French lady, who, once she was asleep, stayed that way for most of the journey. Noice.
By the time I arrived in Goa, I had met a trio of Norweigan girls, who wanted to join me in Patnem (the place I had booked a room for the coming weeks) - so we all hopped into a taxi and headed to the beach! YAY. By this time I was MINGING - I had been in the same clothes for the whole two days, and I felt like POO ON A STICK. Sooooooooo great to have a shower.
The posh-ish beach shack I had booked, turned out to be the best on the beach - and so we were very happy to be there...and they also had space for the girls - so that was really great.
Patnem has turned out to be the very best I could have hoped for -its ABSOLUTE HEAVEN! Palm lined creamy beach with a few small peaceful bars and shops along it. Within easy walking distance is Palolem, which is a bit more razzy. On the first night The Norweigans and I headed over to the big smoke of Palolem to see "Graham from UB40" play - a really big gig in these parts! The night was awesome - some of the best virtuoso reggae I have ever heard. Then, to cap it off, who should ring me, but my buddy Nela! She had arrived at the beach and wanted to come and share my hut! wicked!
Since then, Nela, the Norweigans and I have been hanging out and generally been getting to know the place, as well as beaching and vegging as much as possible. We have all signed up for a yoga course on Monday for 5 days - which also includes meditation, so that should be very cool.
So, there I am at the moment. Enjoying the sunshine and laid back attitude. Im trying to get in the groove of having nothing to do! Im like a cat on a hot tin roof at the moment...constantly keeping occupied! Im going to make a concerted effort to SLllllllllllllllllloooooooooooooooowwwwww down now though!
After a little break away from electricity and phones in the Jungle, Im BACK (you will all be very glad to hear !)
I have had one of the most wonderful wildlife odysseys ever - the Jungles of MP have really come up trumps. As you all know, this section of my trip was a little bit of work as well as holiday, as I visited the parks that DI work in most for thier tiger study tours and tiger safari's - Bandavgargh and Panna in Madyha Predesh.
When I left Delhi after we last spoke, I took a chair car train to Jhansi in MP, where I was cordially met by a lovely driver who whizzed me off to my first destination Ochha. Ochha is a picturesque little town on a river which has a large fort and some interesting temples. The main reason for visiting there is to break the journey to the National parks (the roads in MP are really really bad - as you start experiencing really rural undeveloped areas - mostly they are dust tracks. ) I stayed at the BundKand riverside resort, which was a delightful newly built copy of a heritage hotel. It consisted of twenty or so rooms surrounding a large courtyard of formal gardens. Each room was decorated in traditional style, and the main showpiece of the hotel was the fabulous blue tiled restaurant. I was hosted by a rather strange young man (the Maitre'D) and an older gentleman who was the manager. They both were rather distracted because a large film crew were also staying -shooting a Bollywood style soap powder advert! It was the stuff of dreams - chaos reigning... tens of runners and camera men all revolving around the actors being really cheesy. Even the Hotel manager got a bit part....unfortunately, they didnt need a buxom English girl...although I tried to get into the shots by walking across behind them alot....didnt work...just got told off!! haahahaha
The hotel and the area were a nice relaxing overnight..its really nice to be a DI client I decided...the beds were heavenly!!
Next day my driver reappeared to chauffer me to the first national park I was visiting - Panna. The drive was long and bumpy, so by the time I arrived at Ken River Lodge, I was very pleased to have a lovely hot shower and a chill out. I met a tour leader from an oldies adventure company in Canada, and we went on a wildlife walk with one of the guides....we didnt see much though -we were yakking too much I think...oops.
The next couple of days were filled with exciting wildlife adventures. I met with "our people" on the ground - Shakar the jungle cat researcher, Sanjay the Nepalese guide from Chitwan NP in Nepal, Vinny the camp owner and conservation visionary, and all the rest of the crew. Very nice to put names to faces after talking about them all the time at DI and not knowing them.
Most days I got up at 05;30hrs to go into the NP at opening in the hope of seeing the elusive Tigger and other animals. We were really lucky with other wildlife most of the days, as the jungle there is really beautiful and prolific. I saw Jungle cat, many types of deer, many types of bird, and finally, after many days of searching, a large male tiger. He was beautiful, but he skedaddled so quickly I didnt get a picture of him. He was HUGE though, and I got a bit windy in case he approached us. Mind you, like all wildlife he was off at the first oppotunity. The Jungle itself is very interesting in this neck of the woods - its a really dry desciduous (sp?) forest, which is sparse and only just supporting a very fragile eco-system, and all the time is threatened by outside preassure of domestic animals grazing within the park lands (like goats and cows stripping all the edible grass and greenery)
At Ken river, I also went on a boat trip on the river to spot Crocs -of which there were many. Very cool. ALSO, we spent a night at a smaller more modest lodge in the jungle from where we did a night safari in the Jeep. We were awesomely lucky with that - seeing a Sloth bear - which is very very elusive - up cloase. Also we saw Jackals and two different species of Civets. I liked the Palm Civet - a bit like a Jungle version of Howard. CUTE! One of the highlights of the time in Panna was riding on the top of a beautiful elephant though the jungle. SO WONDERFUL! Also, another hightlight must have been hearing a leopard roaring and growling really close to us one night - didnt see him, but his noise was really enchanting.
Surprisingly for me, MP is getting REALLY COLD, so I was suffering a bit. I managed to get a cold and also to turn my stomach to water after the night safari by getting so cold. Me being me decided that my trouble was DEFINATELY dysentary from Agra, and that I was going to DIE. But, after taking to using more clothes, and eating less, I was cured...
On my last afternoon at Ken, I visited the nearby town of Kajaraho, at which are some of the most impressive restored temple complexes in India. They are known for thier naughty graphic sexual carvings on the outside of the temples (it was one of the places where the Karma Sutra came from) An interesting visit indeed. Never knew they did THAT sort of thing a few centuries ago!!!
After fond farewells to the crew at Ken River, I was transported in a very swish land cruiser to my next destination Bandavgagh NP 7 hours south of Panna. The drive was very pleasant as it was through beautiful rural India. It was lovely to see all the people tending thier paddy and dahl fields with traditional methods - like Ox ploughs and by hand. I did really feel the stark contrast of my own comfortable life (encapsulated in this land cruiser) compared to thiers. They couldnt even see me (the cruiser had black windows) but they were still curious - looking at the vehicle as we swooshed past. I couldnt decide if I liked that or not. Not most probably.
Anyway, got to Kings lodge on the edge of the Bandavgargh NP without too much trouble. The lodge is still under construction, and so I was a little bit of a guinea pig. After seeing the room, I was well pleased to be a pig of Guinea! I was in a beautiful brand spanking new cabana room with all very minimalist fittings etc...AND it had a BATH!!!! My first one in India...so it was only a matter of minutes before I was in it enjoying a sumptuous bubble bath. WICKED!
The lodge is run by a wonderful newly wed couple Hutsi the naturalist and is cool urbane new generation Indian wife Gori, who takes care of the hotel and its workings. Hutsi and Gori told me all about the park and its reputation for being one of the best tiger hangouts in the country - I couldnt wait to get into the park!
So, bright and early next morning we were off into the park... which is slightly greener and more lush than Panna, but only just. Bandavgagh is also suffering from encroachment from the outside world, and this is evident at the AMOUNT of wildlife you can see - its all crushed into a small area. This is very good for sightings, but not too good for the wildlife in the end - as it could lead to interbreeding, and then extinction if its left to go to its logical end.
Anyway during the 4 days I went into the park, I had 14, yes, 14 different tiger sightings!!! MOST AWESOME! We saw tigers from the jeep and also from Elephant back as well (ele's often get cloaser to Tigers than the jeeps, because the tigers are not scared of ele's - so they use ele rides to get really great viewings.)
On one day - we saw TWO sets of mum and two cubs in the morning - from jeep and from ele, and then in the afternoon, we saw a different set, with older cubs - drinking at a water hole. I have some EXCELLENT pics of all three tigers with each other...truly amazing. Then, on the way out of the park, we saw the cubs from the morning play fighting with each other - really snarling and growling, and on thier hind legs rearing up! just the stuff of dreams.
Next day we saw the mum and cubs again...and HEARD dad too - WHAT a noise...he was positively roaring into the park...and BOY did that noise go straight through you!! Terrifying, but totally electrifying too. We didnt see him, but we saw his poo and his footprints - both giant!! big boy!
My experience at Bandavgargh was really really special - and I wont forget it in a hurry.
On the last night at the lodge, the old Sadhu who is also the gate man, came to entertain us with his songs and dancing. They guy was about 70, has a long beard and a balding head, and is constantly stoned! he banged things and shook his special Sadhu instrument (which looks like a big sword) and sung his heart out by the camp fire. The staff then joined in and sang us lots of songs - really a wonderful evening. The climax was when the gatekeeper did this amazing pogo dance on one leg - apparently its like Shiva, the god of all gods in Hindu - he bounces on one leg and smokes pot when he gets REALLY pissy with humans and how rubbish we are!
Anyway, I was very sad to leave Bandavgargh - as I had become great friends with Gori and Hutsi - I hope I can see them again one day.
I was met by another driver who was going to take me to the nearest station (Katni) which was 2 hours drive away. He turned up looking like John Travolta - in all white - white flares and even cuban heels! Amazing! The journey was uneventful except for a freaky feeling I had when we went through a toll both on the highway - I thought I recognised the guy taking the tolls. I did, he was Evil Indian Bert from Bert and Ernie (Sesame Street). The likeness was so great I wanted to get a picture of him, but couldnt get away with it.....
When we got to Katni, it transpired that my train was 4 hours late (and so was now departing at 2300hrs - freezing!) John Travolta waited with me on the station! dear of him. While I was waiting he plumped me into the UPPER CLASS waiting room, which was bare and sparse, but a little bit warmer than the rest of the station. I kept myself amused watching the toilet cleaning crew, who were doing by far the most minging job in the station, but were dressed like Miami vice - in pale yellow bodywarmer style jumpers and WHITE shoes.
Anyway, finally got onto the train and embarked on my 20 hour journey to Mumbai. The trip was OK except for the ice blast airconditioning and also the annoying girl in the bunk below me (she was american) singing DIDO in an "im so great at singing" voice under her breath.....for 8 hours..... I ended up wrapping my blanket round my head to make make-shift ear coverings.
On arriving in Mumbai, I was adopted by a nice porter who helped me put my stuff into the cloakroom for a couple of hours before it was time to get on the next 20 hour train down to Goa. I managed to explore a little bit around the station, but it was rush hour, and I didnt want to get too lost - so I retreated to the ladied waiting room.....which was also full of screaming kids...and men....
Anyway, at the appointed time, the porter came back for me and helped me get my luggage back, and then found the right train for me. He carried my stuff ( and there is a LOT of it now!) and put me into the right berth and everything. Lovely! This train was better because I was sharing my booth with a lovely Indian English couple who were very quiet, and also a batty old French lady, who, once she was asleep, stayed that way for most of the journey. Noice.
By the time I arrived in Goa, I had met a trio of Norweigan girls, who wanted to join me in Patnem (the place I had booked a room for the coming weeks) - so we all hopped into a taxi and headed to the beach! YAY. By this time I was MINGING - I had been in the same clothes for the whole two days, and I felt like POO ON A STICK. Sooooooooo great to have a shower.
The posh-ish beach shack I had booked, turned out to be the best on the beach - and so we were very happy to be there...and they also had space for the girls - so that was really great.
Patnem has turned out to be the very best I could have hoped for -its ABSOLUTE HEAVEN! Palm lined creamy beach with a few small peaceful bars and shops along it. Within easy walking distance is Palolem, which is a bit more razzy. On the first night The Norweigans and I headed over to the big smoke of Palolem to see "Graham from UB40" play - a really big gig in these parts! The night was awesome - some of the best virtuoso reggae I have ever heard. Then, to cap it off, who should ring me, but my buddy Nela! She had arrived at the beach and wanted to come and share my hut! wicked!
Since then, Nela, the Norweigans and I have been hanging out and generally been getting to know the place, as well as beaching and vegging as much as possible. We have all signed up for a yoga course on Monday for 5 days - which also includes meditation, so that should be very cool.
So, there I am at the moment. Enjoying the sunshine and laid back attitude. Im trying to get in the groove of having nothing to do! Im like a cat on a hot tin roof at the moment...constantly keeping occupied! Im going to make a concerted effort to SLllllllllllllllllloooooooooooooooowwwwww down now though!
posted by Abster at 11:39 am
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