Her hips dont lie

So, after a long last day in Bangalore, we managed to get to the station in time to catch our train to Mumbai. Our last day was spent rally-ing around Bangalore city in a rickety rickshaw visiting several post offices. Our aim for the day was to post some parcels back to the UK and Belgium, but Indian Beauracracy forced us to spend the day having tea with the postmaster general, chatting to policemen, having a formal interview with the Philatical manager, and finally sharing lunch snacks with the "parcel supervisor" lady at the huge victorian general post office. She was meant to open our carefully packed parcels in order to search them, but instead she sat us down, had a mumsi chat with us, shared her lunch and then sent us on our way to the man with the weighing scales. 3 parcels, 1 tailor, 3 post offices, 4 rickshaw rides and 7 hours in all. Viva India!

We made it on to the train in time and settled in for the 24 hour trip to Mumbai. The journey was relatively uneventful except for a curious Indian bloke who wanted to be friends with us. He couldnt really speak any english, but that didnt stop him. He sat himself down in our compartment and proceeded to talk to us in Hindi for a while. When we looked mystified, he decided to sing to us instead. So, after an hour of Hindi bollywood and religious tunes we made like we were going to bed, and he had to ship out of the compartment. He would have happily continued until dawn I think - in fact in the morning he came back for an encore, but we ignored him (ahhhh!)

It felt great to be in the crazy city of Mumbai again. As you know, I had only been here for 7 hours in the station before, so I was raring to see the city properly. Nele had been here for a few days on her own before, and had had a tepid experience - so she was up for seeing around as two people rather than the vulnerable one. We immediately got a taxi from the station which, after some persuasion took us, using the meter, to the tourist area around the Gate of India -called Colaba. When we arrived we happened upon the Salvation Army building -which I had read was a good place to stay. We checked into a very clean dorm for 150 rupees including breakfast. Bargin.

Next day we headed out early so as to get a full days sightseeing under our belts before going to the gig the next day. While we were wandering around the Gate of India, which, by the way, is not so impressive....we met a dodgy bloke who wanted to sell us a full days sightseeing in a taxi for 400 rupees each -a rip off in other words. When we tried to walk away, he said - "ok,ok, how about bus sightseeing for 150 rupees - thats 8 hours and 32 sights" THIS sounded a bit more interesting. We went for it, and were not totally surprised when we were piled onto a very old rusty bus with about 50 Indian tourists. The commentary was done in Hindi (as well as piped deafening Hindi hits) and we stopped at some very obscure places. In addition to that, as we had so much ground to cover, we were only allowed 15 minutes at each place. We took in the great Mumbai sights - the Aquarium, the Jhopatti beach, the Silent Towers, several obscure museums, several flea ridden temples and lastly (and most interestingly) Malabar Hill, which is where all the Bollywood stars have houses- a bit like Hollywood hills. Although the tour was a bit boring and the bus was very very hot, we both agreed it was worth 150rs for the transport alone really. After several hours, we gave up and decided to make a dash for it....so we hailed a taxi and headed back to the hostal for a well earned shower.

Now we had a couple of hours free, we decided to go and watch a film -as you all know Mumbai is the capital of the Indian film industry, and so this is a must while you are there. We wanted to see "Namaste London", but when we got to the cine, it was all booked out, so we ended up seeing "Apocolypto" which is an English film about the Mayan culture. The film was excellent, and the experience of the cinema was even better. Unlike the cine in Jaipur, we went to one of the most up to date Cine's Ive ever been to - reclining seats, surround sound and widescreen -all for the bargain price of about GBP2.50 Also, popcorn was 40 rupees! (50p) AND they had Baskin Robbins icecream.

At the beginning of the film, there was an announcement "please be standing for the Indian National Anthem" so we all stood up, and on screen they showed the Indian flag flapping happily in the breeze, whilst playing the anthem at a million decebels. I swear all Indians should be stone deaf - the assult on thier ear drums is incessent.

Anyway, the film was a high excitement show, and at the very climax of the film, when a poor unfortunate was about to get his beating heart ripped from his body, a little notice came across the screen - "The popcorn stand has been missing you - Intermission 15 minutes." We briefly recovered from our heart palpitations enough to go and get popcorn as we were told. When we returned, I poked Nela in the ribs just at the wrong moment, and she jumped, dropping some popcorn on the head of an elderly lady in front of us. We were so embarrassed and hilarious that we were helpless with laughter for many minutes. We didnt know wether to tell her and take it out of her hair, or wether we were too embarrassed. The situation was made 10 times worse when the guy sitting next to Nele reached over and told the lady about the popcorn. We were silenced with mortification...made worse when he told us it was his mother-in-law!!!! What are the chances of that!!! Anyway, we hid in the darkness, but the fit of giggles lasted a long time.

Next day was the big Shakira day. We met another girl at the hostel that was going to the gig too - so we decided to all share a taxi. We arrived at the gig good and early, and managed to get into the front 10 or so people right in front of the stage. We didnt think our position would hold after the lady herself came on, but we hoped we would get a good look before we were shoved aside or passed out. The crowd was made up of wealthy Mumbai-ites and also lots of foreigners - especially Shakira's devoted home fans - the Coloumbians. The atmosphere was amazing - the venue absolutely giant, and a crowd to match. This was the biggest and most expensively staged gig India has ever seen. There was a huge lighting rig and the stage was complimented by two giant screens - which apparently is the first of thier kind seen in India. The atmosphere was electric!

We waited nearly 3 hours in the baking sun, and finally, as the sun set, the songstress came on. She was as good and better than we expected - and so our hotness and tiredness evaporated right away - we boogied and screamed with the rest of them. Amazingly, the mostly Indian crowd were very respectful, and didnt push forward when she came on - meaning we were able to maintain our place throughout the gig -right at the front about 10 metres away from the lady herself. AWESOME!

Shakira did all her hits, which she cleverly used Indian instruments for many of them. Also, she spoke a bit of Hindi to the crowd - who were really pleased. In the encore, she did "hips dont lie" and "wherever, whatever" and the place went OFF! She was accompanied by a team of traditional Indian dancers who were belly dancing like Shakira throughout. Many costumes and colours - really really wonderful!

We went back to the hostal exhausted and exhilirated! It was SO WORTH travelling over half of India to be there!

Next day we were due to catch the train from Mumbai to Goa and on to Karnataka to Gokarna. The train left in the evening, so we made the matinee of "Namaste London". The film is a modern Bollywood - lots and lots of singing and dancing -which has the theme of Indian British girl falling in love with a Punjabi (they bill him and FUNjabi) boy. The film was funny, and half set in London and Half set in the Punjab. The highlight was a dance scene involving sikh's on tractors. The only worrying thing was that the film was blatantly racist against England. Lots of really inflammatory portrayals of English people! Worrying what the Indians think we are like !!

After that we waited around in Mumbai station for a bit. Met a family who were travelling with thier heard of goats, and also two transvestites - men who are dressed in Sari's. Apparently they live off money that people give them - its bad luck not to give a tranny some money in India. To pass the time we also weighed ourselves on the "weight and fortune" machines - which spit out a little card with your weight and a fortune. It seems I have lost about 15KG since being in India -thats about 2 stone. Not bad considering I still havnt got Dysentary!

The train to Goa was another straightforward overnighter, where we met some nice other tourists. We then continued on the local train to Gokarna in Karnataka, which was another 2/3 hours. Beautiful journey through some stunning landscape.

On arrival in Gokarna, we piled into the all terrain bus, which took us unceremoniously to OM beach - which is where I am now.

Om is a beautiful double bay of pale sand and clear water. Its a hippy enclave and here Bongos and fire Poi are a way of life. That aside, its a really untouched beach - hardly ANY people at all. You can sit on the beach all day and not see a soul. Paradise.

So, since we arrived here, we have been taking in the sea and sand as well as competing in a sandcastle competition - which was taken part in by almost everyone on the beach. Great vibe man. Also, yesterday, a new temple opened near the beach and there were much celebrations, ending in a full-on all nighter trance party. The real deal. Underground and LOUD! Of course Im too old for all that...but I hear the young people had a good time. It finished at 8am this morning!!!!! Fire Poi abound.

Bangs-Galore

So, Ive arrived, after a very very wearing 38 hour train ride from Delhi to Bangalore, during which I had to resort to ear plugs because I was cabined with THE most irritating boy child (about 2 years) and his mother. The child did NOTHING but cry/whine/maul for 20 HOURS, and she did nothing but wet and pathetic about with him. As you know, I love kids and am a very passive person, but at one stage I actually was imagining smothering him with the India Rail pillow I had been given. It was that bad.....

Once arrived in Bangalore, I managed to meet up with Nela again - a great reunion - im glad to be back together. Within an hour of meeting up, we were hatchin hairbrained plans. On the TV in my hotel in Delhi, I had seen that Shakira is about too play a massive gig in Mumbai on 25th March, so I proposed to Nele that we should perhaps see if there were any tickets - and leave it to fate to see if we should go! Within an hour of arriving in Bangalore, we had bought tickets for the gig and booked our train to Mumbai - which is another marathon 24hours (Im SUCH a glutton for punishment) and sets off TONIGHT!

In the short time we have spent in Bangalore, we have caught up with each others gossip, been shopping (alot!) and generally chilled out. Bangalore is the best city I have been to so far in India - its clean, really up to date and totally forward looking. Also, the people have a great Southern attitude - chilled out and really friendly. What a place! Id like to spend more time here, but this time Karma says "No!"

Nothing else notable to report except Nele has bought some Tarot cards. She is into all that stuff - and although Im a bit skeptical, I seem to have become her practise person. If the cards are to be believed, this is going to be a very good year!!!

BO-PAAAALLLLLLLL!!!!!

The last couple of days I spent in Nepal have probably been the highlight of this little side trip. As you know, I have a penchant for water activities, and so I signed up for a 2 day white water extravagansa on Nepal's longest and steepest river - the Bhote Khosi.

At the crack of dawn I was piled into a rickety Nepali bus with three westerners, 30 Nepali's, 3 rafts, 4 kayaks and tons of sundry paddles and equipment and we merrily made our way Noth of Kathmandu. The drive was as "hard core" as the white water, although it was spectacular. We wound our way through terraced farming fields and high mountain passes while our Nepali friends (a group from a university who were all learning Spanish) screetched at the top of thier voices all the popular Nepali hits, and even some Bon Jovi, accompanied by a guitar that had appeared amongst the piles of stuff. Our final destination, a very peaceful riverside tented camp, was transformed into a nightclub as soon as the Nepali's arrived. They had brought a generator and also a sound system! These guys knew how to make a portable party! After lunch and much hilarity and dancing, we all changed into our swimwear and hopped back into the bus to drive to our "drop-in" point. The mood was jubilant all the way - and even till we were all in the rafts on the river (much dunking and splashing with paddles) when a calm descended. The safety kayakers went first down the river, and we were then briefed and shown how to deal with each watery hazard. I knew what to expect, but many of the Nepalis (mostly the "squeaky girls" as we called them) had sobered up and looked a bit scared. The bit of the river we were about to do was a grade 3/4 (the maximum is 6 which is unraftable) , so not that difficult really.

We headed off down the river, our raft first, then followed by the two larger rafts which contained the Nepali group. Our team seemed to take most things in its stride - we had a small maneauverable raft which was nice, also we had all rafted before, so we spent much of the time waiting for the others. It was very nice to have a break though, as the surroundings were absolutely gob smacking. True rural Nepal - little villages, small farms and huge snow capped mountains - beautiful.
The rest of the river was a great combination of nice bumpy white water, and flat bits to contemplate on. We soon learned a new word in Nepali - which was frequently shouted by the "Squeaky girls" BO-PPAAAALLLLLLLL!!!! which means EXTREEEEEEEEEMMMEEE!!!!! Very Funny indeed!

Anyway, the Squeaky's boat overturned once and they all got a good dunking! haha!

We rafted back to the lodge, and the party continued until it was time for the Nepali's to go back to Kathmandu (they couldnt stay overnight "becuase there are girls in the group"??!!) and we were left in relative peace for the rest of the evening - just me and the three western boys (well men) and the rafting guys. The camp was really beautiful, and they made a fire and we had beers under the sweeping starlight. magic! I was lulled to sleep by the sounds of the river.

Next day we got up early and headed out to do "the big one" the most technical and steep part of the river - more "up" than the stretch we did the previous day. Driving to the "put-in" in the bus was exciting - the road was a mere ledge over the gorge we were to raft..also, we could see almost constant white water the whole way! YAY!

The trip down the river was excellent - probably the best white water I have ever done - we "dipped" the boys twice, and the raft completely flipped once - meaning I did end up taking a swim in the glacial waters! wouldnt have been a trip without it I suppose! It was BOPAL all the way MAN! Exhilirating and really beautiful all at the same time.

Got back to kathmandu with some aches and pains, some new friends and some awesome memories of gushing water!

Yesterday was spent mostly queueing....In Kathmandu airport, and then in Delhi airport. I must say though, its GOOD to be back in India - for the heat if nothing more! its sweltering! Heading South again tonight on the train to Bangalore to meet up with Nela again. We are going to BOIL!

Tharu Stick Dance/Cornish Morris dance

So after my "getting to know you" session with Kathmandu, It was time to leave the capital and head to warmer climes - into the JUNGLE BABY! The hostel had arranged for me to catch the bus from Kathmandu to Chitwan National Park (in the far South of Nepal - near the India boarder) and then for me to stay in one of the lodges they recommend. Now, you all know me and wildlife, Ive been very spoilt...well at least with the lodges anyway......until now.

The lodge I washed up in was obviously a very very backpackery type place (in fact I later found out they use it mostly for volunteer programmes). I was also...youve guessed it...they ONLY GUEST. As shivers of rememberance of Jaisalmer and Camels went through me, I buckled down to being the sole central attraction for the 8, yes, 8 young male staff...most of whom had started at the lodge 3 days ago...had never met a foreigner...and didnt know jack spit about wildife.......

Luckily, I found a shared interest with them and Hindi bollywood movies, so I didnt have to suffer meals on my own. They mearly added a TV and DVD player to the opposite side of the table to me - and played an endless loop of squeaking Hindi movie hits. I learnt to eat quickly....

Aside from the set up at the lodge, I did have quite an interesting visit to the NP. The boys duely arranged for me to go into the park on an elephant - a very good overall experience, except slightly marred by the other elephant rider, who was obviously a small Indian family. The "Dad"'s mobile phone kept ringing..just as we were creeping up to some interesting wildlife...so off it went. The ringtone was SCOOTER....and he ALWAYS answered it......

The following activity was a lovely river canoe trip - where we saw lots of birds and crocs. The guy from the lodge with me didnt know ANYTHING about birds ("thats a white bird...") and I was saved by the driver who had tagged along, and seemed to know a few bird names. After that, I was taken to the Elephant breeding programme - which had to be a highlight. Lots and lots of mummy and baby elephants all being very well looked after. The very informative museum there also told all about the rearing, breeding and training for the ele's in the forest here. Very interesting, and of course, very cute.

That evening, I heard I was in for a treat - a CULTURE SHOW. Now, of course I was in a funk about the state of my Chitwan experience up to then...and the last thing I needed was a load of people dressing up in national cosume and prancing about for the tourists....so I nearly didnt go..BUT...I did in the end...and it turned out to be the total highlight of my trip to Chitwan! The show was in a little ramshakle theatre in the village - about a 100 tourists crammed onto wooden benches looking onto a dusty and very large stage. The MC spoke the weirdest and funniest English I have heard (since Ramooji film city) and the show was a revalation. Most of the "acts" were group dances of about 30 young men in traditional dress performing different Tharu stick dances. These are across between morris dancing and very very difficult ninja style martial arts. Its a wonder to me they didnt do themselves an injury at every turn. It was genuinely very impressive. These bits were interspersed with bollywood style duets done with 110% conviction by the young people singing and dancing thier hearts out. In the middle of it all was a "traditional mourning dance" which turned out to be a ladyboy show. THEN to top it all off, the last act was the dance of the peacock. This was a person bent double inside a peacock costume. A bit like the guys you see in Panto "riding" a big yellow chicken or something. The peacock dance was inspired, funny and very well done. I was in tears of happyness when it finished. What a show to remember!! SO glad I went.

Next day, I spent extra money to go into to the National Park proper by jeep - to try again to see a tiger. The trip was really really crap. First of all, we didnt go into the park proper. We only went into the buffer zone (same place as where the elephants are). We then stayed on a main road where there was almost zero hope of seeing anything let alone tigers or rhino. The "guide" was a wide boy from the hotel who knew NOTHING about wildlife, and who proceeded to want to go WALKING off path - which we all know is TOTALLY ideotic and franky insane in tiger country! I put my foot down and stayed in the jeep. I was quite hoping by then that he would get mauled and I could have a laugh and take pictures.

The whole experience made me realise that I now know what great stuff DI do - wow its SO different to the rest of the crap out there.

I escaped Chitwan the next morning and headed out for Pokhara which is in the West of Nepal. Its a little town which is based around a beautiful lake, and is mostly famous for being the gateway to a lot of Nepal's superb mountain trekking - a stonesthrow away from the reputed Annapurna circuit and lots of amazing places. The bus journey was interesting to say the least - we picked our way around not ONE, but TWO major crashes on the road - one was a head on with two large load carrying lorries, and the other was a bus overturned...and the people were still spilling out and trying to help the others squashed beneath...nice.

When I got to Pokhara, I stationed myself in a SUPERB small hotel right at the lakeside, which, for 200 rupees (about GBP1.75 per night) got me a clean lovely room with huge picture windows on two sides - one facing the spectacular mountain range, and the other facing the equally spectacular lake. WOWEEEEEeeee it was marvellous. I then spent several very lazy days walking about the lakeside, reading my books, having my hair cut and generally pampering myself. One of the days I hired a canoe and decided to paddle round the whole lake. After 4 hours, I was right at the other end from Pokhara with a headwind against me!!! I paddled back with much determination (by this time I had given up the antic of getting right the way around) and made it back for nightfall. Boy, that lake is bigger than it looks har har! And I got a rather bad case of sunburn. The day was the best day I spent in Pokhara though. The lake is so peaceful and beautiful - floating along on reflections of clouds and mountains. Also, the little communities on the lakeside were really fascinating to watch - all the daily lives revolving around cattle, the lake and the family.

For two days after that, we had massive storms in Pokhara - thunder and lightening - the works - I spent the time under my duvet with a book watching the natural show from my ace windows. The only small problem is that Nepali houses and hotels dont have heating. Oh well, I had lots of blankets instead.

During my time in Pokhara, I managed to get in touch with the crowd of people DI use (a small chain of top comfort/quality hotels) in Nepal - and I was invited to visit thier MD and stay overnight in the Pokhara lodge. Wahoo! a touch of luxury. I had a british racing green landrover, with two uniformed staff pick me up at my hotel - and drive me up and up and up to the beautiful lodge above Pokhara. From the lodge, you could see the whole mountain range which wasnt visible from the bottom where I was before - totally gobsmacking. The central lodge had an open lounge area with big log fires and quiet, attentive, lovely Nepali staff. Tea and biscuits later, and a briefing with the lodge naturalist (oh JOY!) I had been aquainted with the wildlife of the area and shown around. My room was a spectacular small lodge on the hillside overlooking the whole mountain range and the whole of Pokhara. NOW I was at home! The rest of the day was spent with the MD bloke talking about the new DI trips etc etc and then a very pleasant evening was spent with the other guests there - who were older, cultured, intelligent and very talkative. AH if only I could travel like this all the time!

Well, that pretty much brings us up to date - I got the bus back to Kathmandu this morning at dawn (the lodge woke me with Himalayan grown tea and a lovely boxed breakfast to have on the bus...) and am now going to finalise my visa for going back to India tomororw. Then..its white water rafting for a day or two, then "home" to India on 18th.

Holi Schmoli

The day after I made the last post was the Hindu festival of Holi. This is very enthusiastically followed by everyone in Kathmandu, even if they are not Hindu's. The shops and businesses close for the day in order to cause havoc in the streets. Water bombs, water shooters, water pistols and plain buckets of the stuff are thrown from the rooftops over innocent passers by. Water is then followed quickly by a large amount of coloured dye. Its much like being tarred and feathered against your will!! ...of course I had to be on the streets to witness this! There was utter chaos for the whole day -the streets taking on the feeling of a warzone - shops with thier shutters down, rickshaws and taxi's covered in sheet plastic, and lots of tourists hopping about with white tee-shirts - inviting a dousing. Street corners were full with naughty groups of boys (from the age of 5 to 65) all waiting for thier next victim!

All in all, I had an excellent time, although I have now got a cold from being thouroughly doused in ice water so much....of course they target girls more than boys (as they make more noise!!) and of course tourist girls on thier own even more!! hahah! Of course I make a lot of noise anyway....

The pictures of the aftermath are on my photobucket website so have a look. For days and days afterwards, the streets were littered with powder stains and broken waterbomb skins. Also, a lot of dogs around the city were sporting very fetching multi colour fur. Sweet!

The next day I had hired a taxi man to show me the sights of Kathmandu. We spent the whole day cruising the city looking at magnificent sights. The first of which, I now know, is the ICONIC landmark of Kathmandu - the Pasupati temple - which is a large white Buddhist stupa which is topped with the very famous "eyes of peace" and the squiggly "nose" looking like a question mark - this I learnt is the Nepali figure for the number one. The significance of the whole thing is "bringing together the city with peace for all" very nice too. The Stupa is surrounded by hundreds of prayer wheels, which the faithful will turn as they pray. You have to walk clockwise round the stupa (to do it right!), So I just sat and watched the marvellous parade coming round in front of me. The area is steeped in temples, monastaries and churches for many different religions, but mostly Buddhist (and one Hindu), so its in this area that I encountered my first Buddhist monks and nuns, in all shapes and sizes - some of whom are also obviously western. The atmosphere was enhanced by many colourful prayer flags flying about and above the stupa, as well as all manners of insence being burnt - which was also being sold by many stalls in the area - interestingly looking like inscense and myrre of days of yore - from bags of crystalline salty stuff to bits of ferns and tree bark. It all smelt lovely.

Driving through the city to the next destination, I watched the daily life continue oblivious to little me. The streets thronging with people - mostly shopping in tiny shops in crumbling ancient buildings. There are few new developments in KTM, mostly old flaky buildings with carved wooden lattice windows and balconies. The shops are in small cubby holes in the bottom of the buildings - almost too small to hold the stock and one person - but filled to the seams with all manner of things - from drums to shoes to packets of biscuits. Most of the shops have shutter doors which can be closed and padlocked if the keeper is going to lunch! Old men and women squat on the pavement drinking tea or selling piles of veg, as rickshaws, cars, dogs and children crowd the street. The most gory area is the butchers shops which are a grisly table in the cubby hole piled with all manner of meats, innards and buckets of blood. One delightful stall I saw had a goats head on a nail by its eye socket...ahem...nice.

Anyway, we sped through the madness to the next interesting stop in the list, which is Boudha - stupa and ghats. This is a Hindu sanctury which is straddling a river, in which, the bodies of the dead are washed and prepared for thier cremations - at the burning Ghats. Now, I had read about this place in the book, so I was a bit prepared, but untill you have seen human flesh melting in front of your eyes, while the corpses wailing relatives loudly and longly mourn next to the pyre, you cannot believe how shocking yet moving the whole thing is. You can sit on the opposite side of the river to watch the cremations, so it becomes a bit like very macarbre theatre, which I thought I could handle...but I was a bit wrong. I left there with very mixed feelings.

First of all, the dead body is washed in the river by the relatives (who are constantly wailing). The river is FILTHY with the remains of previous burials (pieces of material, flowers, unidentified charred remains...) and also all the usual indian style water detritus - sewage basically. The washing is done in full view of all the people, and the body is not covered up at all. I saw three dead people.....shiver shiver.

Then the body is transported to the funeral pyre on the ghat. Then there is a long ceremony, where all the extended family anoint the body(which is wrapped in a safferon sheet by now) and lay flowers on it. Its also doused with water from the river (which cannot be good for the bodies flammability...) and then at the end, the oldest son has to go around the body three times with a lighted flame torch, and then set the whole thing on fire. While burning, the body is doused in Ghee or butter, which helps the flames. I watched with gobsmacked gory interest while the body went up. It melted. I saw the flesh melt. God, It was something I wont forget in a hurry, nor would I like to see again really. The rest of the site is a very beautiful complex of Hindu temples and shrines inhabited by many many dope smoking sadhu's. I didnt get any pictures of them because they just demand money for pictures and it annoys me!! (I know they are holy men and all, but they should have more decoram!)

Anyway, next on the agenda was the most beautiful Patan Durtbar square. The Durbar square's in Kathmandu and Patan are the oldest parts of the city - they both are similar in that they are still working parts of the city, and still used by the people to go about thier daily lives in - shopping, bartering, praying and generally wandering - but the difference is, that its all done amongst some of the oldest buildings in the country. The buildings in both these squares date back to pre-civilisation of Kathmandu. The squares have many many temples and holy buildings - many in Tibetan/chinese palace styles - topped with several stacked roofs and heavily carved struts and details on the buildings. Also many of the palaces and temples display giant carved animals and gargoyle like friezes on the doors and roof details. Its really wonderful to be able to wander through these areas which are like living museums. In Kathmandu Darbur Sq there is a lot of restoration going on, helped by the tourist rupee, so that is great news. In the Kathmandu D/S there is a palace where there is a "living goddess" which is a hindu child which is thought to be a goddess. Notably, when she gets old enough to get her period, she is chucked out and a new kid is given the accolade of being a goddess. Also, the old one is never allowed to get married (should also die a virgin). Seems to be a bit of a raw deal to me, but apparently, its a HUGE accolade for the family if the church says the child is a goddess. There is only ONE alive in the world at any one time, and they always keep them in the palace here.

Also in KTM D/S there are some amazing HUGE Hindu sculptures of angry looking god incarnations. One of them is meant to strike you dead immediately if you tell a lie in front of him. These people believe it so much that they still use it as part of the court process here! I believe it too - the sculpture is very mean looking. I found myself trying to think true thoughts (just in case...) There is also another one which, on high days and holidays they pour beer through its mouth - and those who manage to get some of the beer become prosperous for the coming year. Nice.

The last place I visited was the Sinoyambhu temple on the top of the hill overlooking the KTM valley - which was also imaginatively known as monkey temple - as it sports some very smooth looking monkeys. This place had a stupa quite similar to the Pasupati temple - with the "eyes"etc, but the best thing about it was the prolific number of prayer flags - and also its position - which afforded the most spectacular views of KTM and the surrounding plateau and mountains. From there, KTM reminded me alot of Quito in Ecuador. Similar setup - mountains, plateau, big city all viewed from "on high"

What a day!

On the way back to the hostel, I noticed a sign for a dentists - they had before and after pics of the peoples teeth, except (I hope) they got them the wrong way around. The "before" shots were of perfect white straight teeth, and the "after" shots were of brown deformed gappy teeth...unless that is a comment on the quality of dental care in KTM!

The following day, I had a little jolly taxi ride out to a "subcity" of KTM called Bhaktipur. This place is also a living fossil of a city - it is "as KTM was" hundreds of years ago. They do not allow motor vehicles into the city, and all the buildings were "as was" Temples on every corner, streets filled with people pushing hand carts and leading yaks and buffalo, squares scattered through the city all resembling Durbar, and all very beautiful and peaceful. It was really like wandering through a HUGE living museum. Really fascinating. The other thing this part of the city is famous for, is pottery. There are whole areas of the city which are dedicated to potters and pottery - beating clay, spinning pots on potters wheels, sculpting, drying pots in the sun, and firing them in huge pyres. Very interesting. I almost got hands on...it looked too inviting for words - but at the crucial moment a wedding procession went past and took my attention away for a bit.

After hours wandering in this marvellous ancient city, I was whisked up to the top of a very large hill overlooking the KTM valley and the surrounding mountains, to see a spectacular sunset. Beautiful!

Kath..Man..Do...Do...Do....

If you are old enough to remember the Agadoo/Blacklace reference above...then respect!

Morning Blog faithfuls.

As you will have gathered, I made it safe and sound out of India into Nepal just in the nick of time before my India visa ran out and I was thrown into jail. Yesterday everything went surprisingly well and on-time for the flight from Delhi to Kathmandu - leaving Delhi at lunchtime, arriving here - after a lovely flight over the mountains, at mid afternoon. I hot footed it straight to the hostel Nela had stayed in while she was here. The hostel is called Yeti Guest Home...and it really turned out to be a home away from home - its in the middle of the touristy part of KTM, but is set back in a quiet lovely little courtyard. The family who run it are really sweet Nepali's who are ready to do everything to help. Very comforatble indeed.

Anyway, soon after I arrived, it the temperature started to drop, there was a power cut, and then it started to sheet with rain. Lovely! could be in London!! Undaunted, I found a cosy restaurant with a fire and had a hot choc and read a good book - and felt positively alpine!

Ram (from the hotel) told me that he had "connections" with the Indian embassy, and for a couple of rupees, I could skip all the formalities and get a visa quicker..without the queues (which are legendarily long at the KTM India embassy). So intreagued, I decided to go for it. Hence, early this morning I was trollying through the bustling streets of KTM with an "indian official" who took me to the embassy before it opened. True to his word, he got in and sorted my visa application without any queueing or faffing (at 7am there was already a crowd of motley travellers at the front door, and it was doors open at 9.30am) and we were out before the main crowd even were let in! Ive got to go back in a week to pick up the visa, and then we are done. Nice one! So today, I have the rest of the day free to organise and wander.

My initial impression of KTM is one of a very charming calm city - each corner you turn, there are temples and ancient carved building facades. Also, there is less traffic than I expected. the best thing however, is the people. Having only been here 1/2 a day, Ive already met lots and lots of wonderful Nepali people - they are beautiful, calm peaceful people...and although I trust no-one, they seem much more honest and laid back than the crazy Indians. I think Im going to like this place!

It is COLD though....glad I have my international support network who brought me some warm clothes a couple of weeks ago. Ive been wearing thermal undies and my proper Antarctica clothes already...and im not even in the mountains proper yet!! brrrrr.