Movin on

Morning blog faithfuls

So, after a very long time in one place, I have decided to look at moving on back into the "real" Indian world. Its been lovely here at the beach, but Im getting a little bit bored of how easy it is..and how NON Indian. Nela has gone to Nepal to renew her visa, and we have decided to re-conviene in due course, so Im free to travel a little more before she comes back, SO.....

Tonight, I catch the night bus to Hampi in Karnataka -which is meant to be a hippy stronghold. We shall see....

Catch up with you all soon

Religious party

Phew, today, I really have a lot to tell you!

Well, I have just spent the morning in hospital with Nela - she fell over last night when we were walking to Palolem for dinner - and she has badly sprained her ankle. Although we did a bit of DIY first aid last night, we decided that she should get it x-rayed today. The hopsital in Chaudi was surprisingly nice - if a little 70's. Nela was seen quickly and x-rayed without too much hassle. Then she was furnished with a nice bandage and a couple of crutches - complete rest for that foot for at least 3 days. Not too bad - but she is hoping its all better by the end of the week - thats when she is off to Nepal! Oh dear!

After the hospital we went into the local town of Chaudi to do a little bit of ordinary shopping, and Lo! we couldnt! The roads were closed and there seemed to be a really big Mela going on. On asking a few people what was happening, it transpired that it was an anniversary of the Christian church in the town, and this of course, merited a whole town party! Wicked! Poor old Nela couldnt cope too well with her crutches, so we got her prescription, and then she scooted off back to Patnem. I adventured further into the fray. On the closed streets were stalls lining both sides - cram packed with things that ordinary Indians would be buying - sweets, clothes and toys for the kids. As always here, the goods were extraordinarily colourful and bright, as were the people thronging the stalls. Really exciting.

I managed to walk through the whole market just in time to be seated with a lovely cold drink when the main parade passed by. This was the good and the faithfull dressed to the nines in thier best Sunday clothes - which were a bewildering array of everything from Sari's to short silver cocktail dresses and high heels. The men were all dressed in black smart suits - lots of which had Elvis style silver studding on the front and back. These guys were seriously dressed to thrill. The parade ended in the church where they had a lovely mass (I could hear it outside). Wonderbar!

Im back in Patnem now catching up with everything.

Ciao for now.

Bizarre Bazaar

So, the day after I left you last time, Nele and I had Reiki in Palolem. The massage/holistic centre is based around the back of a hotel down a dusty Indian side street, which makes it initially quite an uncertain experience - however, once you get under the palms of those lovely ladies, all your worries melt away! I had a full Reiki going over, and it was really really lovely. The lady lit inscence, darkened the room and then laid hands on me. A moment after which, I floated away on an aligned shakra high. Beautiful. After an hour of the deepest relaxation you can imagine, I had to go outside into the sunshine and just "sit" for a bit. WOW How Zen did I feel! Really really amazing. We both agreed we would be back.

Next day we joined forces with our new friends from Brighton, Elaine and Dave, to share a taxi to Anjuna to the biggest flea market in Goa, and then to explore the rest of the beaches on the north and central coasts. Our driver Shelu was quickly renamed "Shortcut" because he kept taking shortcuts and getting disasterously lost and then taking an hour to get back on track (he did it about 5 times in one day...and Im not overdramatising...)

High point of the journey was seeing an autorickshaw with a KERNOW sticker on the back. I squeaked and nearly fell out the side of the taxi, but the others didnt get it! Kernow Am Byth!

After a very early start, we made it to Anjuna market area at about 10am just in time to have a look around the stalls and displays before all the fat red minimally dressed lobsters (package tourists) arrived at lunchtime. The market is held once a week on Wednesdays, and is the biggest clothes, craft and miscellaneous flea market in the whole of Goa. It reminded me of the chaos of Pushkar fair - hundreds and hundreds of stalls all busting with goods - and hundreds of hawkers trying to get you to "look at my shop!" The goods were different here though - fishermans trousers, jewellery, t-shirts, sarongs, flip flops, trance CD's and anything else which tourists could possibly want.

By now, Nele and I are hardened bargainers, so we did spot-on shopping for the essentials we had come for (I needed flip flops and some music, and she wanted some Ali Baba trousers) and managed to get very very good deals on them all. Dealing with the stall holders and bargaining the right price has become a sort of classic play, a bit like this....

Abs - Hi, How much is this Sarong? (not looking at the guy, nonchalant)
Man - 600 rupees (7gbp) (Hard stare)
Abs - What? Ohhhhhhhh nonononononono! (smiling and joking!) Are you sure thats the best price???
Man - ok, ok, ok 550 rupees.
Abs - (indignant) Ohhh, nooooo! Too expensive Im afraid (Extra polite English)..
(Abs goes to walk away)
Man - Ok ok ok, Madam, madam (calling me back) (I stop and return to the stall) How much you want to pay???
Abs - Oh....I dont know....nothing more than 50 rupees. (hard stare)
Man - (looking like all his family have been killed, almost weeping) Oooooooooohhhhh Madam! How can you say that? Its lower than my costs! Ok Ok Ok 400 rupees.
Abs - (joking but meaning it) 150 rupees no more....
Man - (looking a bit miffed and still a bit stubborn) 300rupees.
Abs - 150
Man - 300
Abs - 150
Man - 300
Abs - 150
Man - okok, 200
Abs - Ok, No, still too expensive for me....thanks anyway...(wave and walk off...)
Man - OKOKOKOKOKOK Madam...150 rupees.
Abs - OK. Deal!

And that is how it goes EVERY TIME....A little bit time consuming, but its fun!

The market is alive with colour and people - many people come from other parts of the country to sell here, and so there are many different faces and dress in the vendors. Really great for photos.

As the day heated up and the bus loads of tourists arrived, we headed out of the market place to meet the others. We all re-conviened at a beautiful little artsy restaurant to show each other our bargains. We also had a laugh comparing stories of who had seen the most inappropriately dressed tourist. I think Dave won with a very old lady in only a micro gold bikini (smoking...talking English in a London Accent...Lovely!) Mine came in second with a sun burned, visor and white short wearing English couple asking for fortified beers at the drink stall...at 10 in the morning. Sometimes Im ashamed of my nation!

Next stop on our magical mystery tour was Vagator beach just North of Anjuna - this was the spot where Dave had misspent his youth 12 years ago - its reputed to be the hippy-est of the Northern beaches - and still has a reputation for full moon parties and the like (apparently there was a 3 dayer here over New Year this year) The first thing that struck me on getting out of the car was that the beach could be very beautiful - it had rugged cliffs, many palm trees and stones along the beach, and white creamy sand....but....it was also covered with lobster people and the ubiquitous rubbish piles which go with any population of tourists and Indians in one place. Also, of course, there were dogs and dog poo, and many cows and cowpats. We walked along the beach, and Dave was reminiscing about the good old days before there were so many bars and huts along the beach ("I stayed in a straw hut for 10 rupees..with 5 other people...heavenly!") and we decided to stay a little while for a sunbathe. I explored the beach a bit with Dave and he showed me some rock sculptures at the end of the beach which are very interesting. They are of Shiva and also a cobra. They reminded me a little bit of Sue Hill's sculptures at the Lost Gardens of Heligan.

We whiled away an hour on the beach trying not to laugh too much at the Indian boys down from Mumbai in big groups. They all are dressed up in jeans or black chinos and thier best shirts and of course, the Bollywood sunglasses. They stalk up and down the beach looking for bikini clad western girls to have thier photo taken with. The funniest thing though is when they go swimming, they seem NOT to own swimwear...they just strip down to thier baggy brown pants and jump on in! Lovely! They also seem happy to parade thier wet panted selves up and down the beach proudly!

We were also into watching the other tourists. It was funny to see the contrasts with the locals - well funny and also astounding that these tourists could blatantly igonore, or be so badly ignorant of the local traditions and sensibilities. The Indian ladies go swimming in thier Sari's to preserve thier modesty...we saw some westerners sunbathing not only topless, but naked! Shocking. I even start getting militant and making loud drama-y comments about appropriate dress. Falls on deaf ears though.

After Vagator we headed down the coast to the biggest coastal town of Calangute. Calangute is really popular with Indian tourists as well as Westerners. To be honest, nothing could have prepared me for the sight of the beach! We walked down a crowded stepway (like a ghat) to the 10 or so KM long beach - and WHAM it hit us - hundreds, if not thousands of people! The beach was HUGE, and so were the crowds! Mostly Indians of all shapes and sizes, in fervent and feverish excitement! The beach was full, and hundreds of people were spilling into the sea. The noise and activity was astounding! Amongst the Sari clad swimmers were trip boats, banana rides, ringos and many many jet ski's, all vying for space at the shore. When someone went on the jet ski, they ploughed at high speed through the throngs of swimmers out into the deeper water, and then proceeded to ZOOM from one end of the beach to the other. I felt as though I was about to witness something very nasty! The beach was teeming with Indians old and young - from ancient granny in a beautiful sari being helped off a trip boat by her whole family, to party dressed toddlers playing naughtily in the sand. Amongst it all were as many vendors as usual - but this time selling all kinds of foods rather than gift items.

In the middle of it all were two middle aged men clad in orange suits waving small red flags and blowing whistles. Turns out they were the lifeguards....for the whole beach....

We beat a hasty retreat and headed back to the car..nursing lovely mango icecreams.

Next we were off to Benilaum - which is meant to be the centre of all tourism for the Brits. Luckily we missed sunset, and it was dark when we got there - meaning it was very peaceful and quiet. We couldnt work out wether the place was this quiet because of people not actually being there because of the terrorism threat in this neck of the woods, OR if they all were gettting ready to "ave it laaarge" Either way we didnt see anyone, so it was rather nice! Beer on the beach, and then retreat back "home" to Patnem.

We arrived back in Patnem well after dark, tired, and very glad to be back. We all voted Patnem the be the very best of the places we had seen - and were glad to be based here.

Mutton curry

Well, today I am once again humbled by this amazing country.

A couple of days ago, I was in the tailors shop ordering another pair of trousers to be made, and the tailors sweet wife asked if I would like to come to lunch with them on Sunday. They only can afford meat once a week (mutton, which here, is goat), on Sundays, and they wanted to share it with me! How touching is that! Of course I accepted.

So, at the allotted time yesterday, I presented at the tailors shop - where the whole family were waiting. Mr and Mrs Tailor, the tailors brother and his wife, and thier seven kids processed through the back alleys of the village to thier one room house amongst the sand dunes and palm trees - where Mrs Tailor had prepared our sumptuous feast. I was treated like royalty and given TONS of two different types of mutton curry, as well as chapati's and rice. Being the guest of honour, I ate with the men, while Mrs Tailor and thier kids all waited outside for the time when they can eat the rest of the leftover food. I was amazed - these people have less than nothing, and they host me - Mrs chubby chops from the UK - and give me everything they have to eat for thier special once a week meal. God, it was amazing and wonderful and really humbling all at the same time. We had a delightful time and managed to talk a little (only the men can speak a little English) and I left very very full and also busting with happyness and love for this amazing place and the people in it.

While I was there, I took a few photos of the family and the kids, and they were all very excited to see themselves on the digital camera. I have decided today that Im going to get some prints for them in a nice frame to say "Thank you" for my lovely experience.

Later yesterday, Nela and I went to the neighbouring metropolis of Palolem beach (its a bit bigger and a lot more touristy than our lovely Patnem) for dinner and to book Reiki for this afternoon. Nela is having trouble with a local guy in Patnem - who is in love with her. If it wasnt so serious, it would be funny. He told her that he wanted a girlfriend, and that he was 24 - so no probs (she is 28). It transpires that he is 19..... luckily they have only been on one date. The worst thing was though, his uncle collared ME on the street (as the older responsible one of our "family" -thats me and Nela) to ask if she was SERIOUS about marrying Guly (that is the young guy)!!!! Nela nearly died when I told her! Needless to say, thatromance is over!

The other interesting thing to report is that we have moved accommodation. We are now residing in a very cheap room in a lovely family house in the sandy palm tree area of Patnem. Its a little away from the beach, but for the difference in price, we are very happy. Also, its much more Indian - which is better I think.

Will update you tomorrow on how my Reiki goes....

New Year on the Beach

Well hello blog buddies. Feels like ages since we last talked. Time is slow here in Goa.

Anyway, avoiding the roasting sun today, I thought Id take some time to update you on my escapades the last few days.

After the Snot fiesta (see last post) I went back for more the next morning - this time achieving the heady heights of dual nostril stringing. Jurassic park! I even have some photos - so they will be on the photo website in due course...though its not pretty!. So I have graduated to head swot of the whole group, as I was the only one to achieve the dual nostril string maneuver (Sp?) Still cant do a headstand though.....

So, on to New Years Eve. Me being me, I talked the hotel owner into letting me hold a massive cocktail party and BBQ for everyone in the hotel and all my various friends along the beach. We charged one price for all you can eat food, and then all you can drink special Absta cocktails. I spent the whole of New Years eve getting ready - making decorations and cocktail favours out of tinsel and coloured paper we found in the local market (they dont have little umberella's or anything as fancy as that here!) I had asked the guy to get some coconuts within which we were planning on making cocktails instead of glasses. So we were all set!

Nela and I were in charge of the bar all night (in return for free food and drink...Lovely!) so we had a great laugh being our double act. At midnight, everyone was suitably cross-eyed, and we all poured out onto the beach to watch the fireworks. Fireworks go off every night here, so NYE was double strength. Hundreds of explosions were happing over the sea and in the sky - and being India, lots of them were being let off on the ground too!! Very romantic (if you can avoid being blown up!) The whole beach was full of locals and tourists, and everyone was being happy and taking photos of each other! really great.

The party continued with beach fires and lots more fireworks until the early hours (in fact I went to bed after dawn!!) Luckily, MJ had the sense to cancel Yoga on NYD!!

On NYD I thought about Gran (it would have been her 92nd birthday), and chilled out all day, drinking fresh pineapple juice and eating lots and lots of food. wonderful.

Little known to me....a few hours behind back in Blighty....Gareth was asking Pol to marry him! How exciting!!!!! Anyway, as soon as I got the news, I was very happy to say I would be bridesmaid.....BUT this may change the future of this trip...they are possibly getting married in July - so this means I may have to change my itinerary to be back in time. Watch this space! In the mean time..... CONGRATULATIONS P and G! Big Chiddy salutes you!

Since New Year, I have been doing very little. My Norweigan chums left a day or so ago bound for Kerala - so its been a little bit quiet. Been working on my NY resolution of doing Yoga and nothing much else.

Did make the effort yesterday to explore another beach - a really really peaceful long stretch of sand along the coast called Agonda . Nela and I were considering moving huts there, but it turned out to be just TOO quiet. Only one restaurant and a couple of hut places. We agreed we wanted to stay at Patnem for the forseeable. Anyway, Nela and I, and also our cool chums Tania and Claire from Bristol, had a great afternoon body surfing and eating seafood! Claire, Tania and I had a crazy rickshaw ride back to Patnem - I laughed hysterically all the way back as it was a high speed terror ride! Survived though.