Tiger tiger burning bright

SO, Im back in Jaipur.

Last couple of days I have been having an ADVENTURE! I looked on the map and realised how close Ranthambore National Park was to Jaipur, so I thought I HAVE to go there (call yourself a wildlife lover??) so I promptly hired a driver and car and trollied off there day before yesterday. The drive was about two hours - and was easy because the driver had little english, so I was able to stare out of the window and not make polite conversation.

As soon as I arrived, I had already booked with the hotel to go into the park straight away on board a canter (which is a 20 person truck thing - not very eco, but cheap and cheerful) The canter was full, and we were all hoping for the main attraction to show its face. The park used to have 40 or so tigers in it, and now, due to poaching, it only has 22. After a lot of faffing on the way in (with tickets etc) we turned the corner into the park grounds....and saw TWO, yes, that is TWO tigers!!! within about 3 minutes!!!!!! I couldnt believe my eyes. one large male, and one female a little smaller. They were sitting off to one side in the grass, and then they leisurely strolled in front of the vehicle and into the bush on the other side! It was late in the afternoon, so the light was just perfect! I was stunned - couldnt stop smiling!!! EVERYONE I had spoken to said that people rarely see Tigers- even in this park where they are relitively prolific! WONDERFUL!!!! Anyway, because we had got the biggie out of the way straight away, I could relax into the rest of the safari. It was wonderful too - we saw lots and lots of Chittal and Spotted deer, as well as myriads of birds - parakeets, beautiful electric blue kingfishers, and best of all, two lovely owls. What a great trip! Made the drive (and expense - I spent a months worth of monies on two days)

Next morning, I did another canter safari and didnt see a thing except monkeys! I felt very lucky, and sorry for the other people with me - who had been 3 times and seen nothing!!

The drive back to Jaipur was interesting. First the moulding on the car fell off and hit me on the head (the driver was taking the bumps at high speed), then a tyre popped and we had to pull over and change it in the middle of a rural community. That raised a crowd of people who were gently touching my hair and clothes. All smiling and laughing at me. Then, when we were just about in Jaipur city, he ran someone over!!!! He knocked a young man off his bike and then got out and shouted at him really badly..I thought my driver was going to punch the poor sod!!! I wound my window up and hid for a minute or two!! He got me back to the hotel in one piece in the end.

Today has been a bit of shopping and chilling out. Ive bought a big thich blanket, as its bloody freezing here at night.

Shakuntalam

Thats the name of the guest house im staying at at the moment. :)

Well, some of my more avid readers have noticed that I have been absent from the keyboard for a matter of days, and have petitioned for further installments in the tale so far....well people, its good to know you care!

The reason its been quiet here for a day or two is that I have been out there LIVING it. ALSO, that ive been FAFFING about with photos for HOURS trying to get them to upload to this damn website. I have managed to upload them to the internet (On PHOTOBUCKET if anyone is interested, just look for abster travels) but I still have not yet managed to get them to stick into blogger. Damned things. Anyway, it wont beat me, so you shall have visual illustrations in due course.

Last I left you, I was in a jib and heading out of Jaisalmer towards Bikaner. Well, not very surprisingly, after my PMT had passed, so did my malaise about India and the people in it. In fact, I perked up quite a bit and remembered why I was here and how to enjoy myself. Ah being a woman is a tough job.

The journey to Bikaner was interesting to say the least. I hopped into another one of the DELUXE busses and managed to get a window seat (air conditioned!). With a huge flower reathed Shiva on the dashboard we careered through the desert towards Bikaner. We had an eventful journey passing roadworks - where the men working on the road had built a stone wall straight across the highway without any signs - necessitating the cars, motor bikes, camel carts and us in the bus to career of the road into unmarked desert for a couple of hundred yards bouncing uncontrolably till I thought the axles would break. Finally after 7 hours we pulled into Bikaner and I was met by the man from the hotel and whisked though the city. At first glance Bikaner seems to be a smaller, more modern and more seedy version of Jaisalmer. Its more workaday and less attractive, but I was interested in seeing all it had on offer anyway.

Next day I hired a rickshaw wallah to show me the sights. After dropping his son off at the HOMO-PATHETIC hospital (presumably he wanted a herbal remedy for being gay and a little bit upset!) we positively whizzed though the traffic out to the north of the city. The traffic here is a curious mix of people riding camels and bicycles and also camel carts, as well as jeeps and busses which look to be on thier last legs, oh and tractors and heavy freight vans covered, and I mean COVERED in tinsel and decorations. It seems to be harvest time, so the trucks are also overloaded with straw - which seems to be sewn onto the lorries - in gigantic hessian sacks that tower above the truck on every side and hang over the top and sides like huge beer guts. I think if the trucks fell over, they would be so well padded there would be no trouble. Driving past them in a small motor rickshaw is a little daunting though!

We drove very fast up the highway about 13 kms North to the famous Rat Temple, which, inIndia, is billed as the 8th wonder of the world. This im not so sure of, but it is passingly interesting. The people here believe that rats and mice are re-incarnated souls, and so they keep and feed thousands of rats inside the temple. As with most temples, you have to take off your shoes which was a bit minging...walking through rats and rat poo was LOVELY. Luckily I had taken some socks. I didnt actually mind the ratties running over my feet. Felt funny though!! I hoped they wouldnt go up my trousers!!! good pictures though. It was obviously a very sacred place for a lot of people, so once again, I felt a bit of a white elephant voyeur, so I made tracks a bit quick.

Then the bloke drove me to the most famous part of Bikaner, which is the fort. I must say that this was a bit of a let down compared to the palaces in Udaipur and Jaisalmer, though it was passingly interesting. The fort palaces had held the Maharaja and his 32 or so wives. He had a bit of a thing for killing things, both people and animals, so the place was filled with interesting knives and guns as well as lots of stuffed rare species (including many tigers and leopards). The guide showing us around (you have to take one of the official guides) was infuriating and very sexist, AND expected a tip. I got mad and gave him 20 rupees which is a bit of a snub!!

I then trollied myself around a museum up the back of the fort, which was really interesting. It was all the different traditional dresses and also lots of royal clothes - some really fabulous ones.

Next we went into the old town and saw all the oldest Haveli's or merchant houses in Rajisthan. The buildings were beautiful but empty - the owners only come back to them on high days and holidays - like weddings and birthdays.

The rickshaw man then took me to the "spicey"market, which was excellent, though I was expected to buy lots of spiceys - which I didnt.

Next was the Jain temples of Bikaner, which were AWESOME - very bland white on the outside, and incredably painted inside. really beautiful. and you can climb three stories to the top and view the whole of Bikaner - wonderful. AND I was the only tourist there. A charming lovely swami showed me around and I felt all peaceful and cheery.

Lastly I was shuffled off to the Bikaner's most famous attraction - the camel farm. Billed to contain 5000+ camels as well as a breeding programme and lots of babies, I was quite excited to go there...until I got there.....no camels (I counted 11 mangy old things!!) Id seen more in my back yard in Jaisalmer! What a let down!!!! Lots of interesting information on camel types and breeding though. Lots of empty camel enclosures! like a zoo where all the animals have gone!!

Next day I headed South again to Jaipur (again on the bus) and that is where I am at the moment. Im having a bit of a "get it together" time. My phone is playing up again (im having my first brushes with Indian beauracracy (sp?) and having to visit this office to get a form, then go somewhere else to get it verified, then take it back to the original one again. Im not sure whether its worth the bother!! I want to be able to phone people though!

Walking like John Wayne

Well, looks like I survived 3 days on camel back without breaking my neck. Got back yesterday afternoon in pain (in the bum and legs) but happy. My experience can be roughly described as follows-

Day 1 Anger followed by Terror followed by extreme pain
Day 2 Mild terror and medium pain followed by a degree of pleasure
Day 3 Mild pain and quite a lot of pleasure

As you know, Im travelling on my own, and am gradually getting more and more jaded by the constant attention a single women traveller experiences in India. So with this in mind, I decide to do the camel safari to meet some other tourists who I can hang with for a little while. SO I sign up at the hotel for a group tour and am assured that there are at least 3 others on the tour and more joining. Every time I discussed the trip with the hotel manager I asked about the other people and he re-iterated that there were several other people on board, but he didnt know exact numbers etc.

I then smelt a rat on the morning of departure when there was NO-ONE else in the jeep with me going to the start point of the trip. I asked the driver, and he said "the others are coming in another jeep" so I think...OK no worries.

Then I arrive at the start point, and...guess what...its me on my own with the 21 year old Camel man. Grrrrrrrrrrreat. Hence my extreme anger. I must admit, I had a hissy fit and demanded to be taken back to Jaisalmer, but was met with the Indian favoured phrase"not possible"

So, onto the camel I got.....from which point anger was eclipsed by pain and terror!!! My poor camel man (his name was Matar) must have thought he had got a really horrible client, because the first half of the day I was EVIL!!! Anyway, he was very calm and nice and helped me a lot so I calmed down enough to ride to the lunch point. From nowhere Matar magic-ed a wonderful meal (he cooks on fire built in the sand) and put me in the shade on a blanket lounger to cool off!

We rode further to the first set of dunes to make camp for the first night, by which time I had made friends with my lovely camel, and things were looking up (except my completely dead legs) Matar cooked for me again, and we slept under a huge blanket of stars on the powdery sand. Wonderful. Lots and lots of shooting stars. Although Matar was a young and amourous man (like all men here, he wants a tourist girlfriend) he was very respectful when I told him I wanted none of it.

The next day saw a couple of hours on camel back in the morning, as well as a stop at one or two of the outlying villages. Riding along is very peaceful - no noise except the camels burping and letting off gas the other end! We saw a lot of deer and goats and other desert wildlife, and the scenery was spectacular - wide open spaces and lots of blue sky.

The second night was spent at Matar's own secret dunes which are virgin territory and very beautiful. The whole trip was exceptionally non-touristy, which, to be fair, is what I was promised.

After leaving the desert and coming back to town, I realised that it had actually turned out for the best being on my own as Im sure I wouldnt have been coddled in such a way if there had been other people on the trip. I look at it that I got a DI-esque private camel safari for the price of a group trip! Im ever the optimist!

Last night I had to elbow the hotel chef in the stomach when he tried to give me an unwanted massage for my bad legs. Luckily he is anorexically thin, and so he crumpled like a twig!

Today im off to Bikaner on the bus at lunch time, so ive been wandering the streets in the fort taking a last few pictures and visiting the famous Jain temple.

Fred from Corrie

Yes, as intimated towards the end of my blog yesterday, I was not at all enamoured with "hotel Pleasure" The place was run down and expensive (well it was 1GBP 50pence! what a rip off) and run by Indian Fred the butcher from Corrie. The SHOUTING! honestly. didnt get any peace at all until 11pm last night. Then I lay awake worrying about how crap the room was and how to move out in the morning. I made up an ace story and executed it excellently today.....SO now Im situated in a LOVELY hotel that is cheaper inside the fort. It was recommended by my friends in Jodhpur, so should have come here in the first place.

Ive had a little explore of the fort area this afternoon - boy this place is beautiful! The whole city is made up of sandstone so its pale yellow. Its famous for its Haveli's and so everywhere you look, you can see beautiful carvings in the stone. The fort is filled with little houses and temples of all shapes and sizes - the streets are little more than alleyways, and so you can really get some peace and get lost.

For my sins ive just signed up for a 3day 2 night desert safari on camel back....remember yesterday I said I wouldnt do that?!! hahaha. Oh well. Its billed as a NON tourist trip....so we shall see. I shall be sleeping under the stars for two nights (starting tomorrow) without a loo... (the man said...there are many loos all around...look at the bushes....) hahaha...

SO Ill be back in touch in a day or two with many hilarious tales of camel back.

love love

Poo-ed my pants...

Well, it had to happen sooner or later... Ladies and Gentlemen, I have EVIL delhi Belly. More on that in due course.

How are you all today? Ive just arrived in Jaisalmer, the most Westernmost point of my Rajisthani roundup - a superb city built of cream coloured sandstone in the midst of one of Indias greatest deserts - the Thar desert. The city floats above a massive expanse of sand and scrub almost like a ship on the sea. Once again, this city is capped with a fort of some beauty - and is also very famous for being the place where people take camel and jeep safari's into the desert. Seeing as Im now an ace camel rider (after my experiences in Tunisia...hahahaha) I may well indulge - but Ill see....

The last entry was at the beginning of my stay in Jodhpur wasnt it...well since then...what a lot has happened. After I finished typing to you, I found a lovely roof top restaurant, and chowed down on a Thali and a lassi whilst watching the activities on the other rooftops of Jodhpur. Just opposite me was a fabric factory on top of which the workers were drying big looms of fabric - they were leaping from roof to roof and throwing these big rolls of material as they lept - quite a show! Then one of the cute Indian squirrels decided to join me on my table, and proceeded to squeek and squark for about 30 minutes! He looked like he was going to bust with excitement! When I didnt understand him he went away.

My hotel was run by three lovely ladies - who - unusually for India are independant women running a business - so of course, the rooms were SPOTLESS and gorgeous and cheap! Thier 11 kids also lived with them in thier house over the road from the hotel - so I had a ready made play team! Each night was spent sitting in the road or on the rooftop messing about with the kids - what a joy they are! At about 7 they speak fluent english, and they have SUCH energy for naughtyness and play. I wished I could have stayed longer (I ended up staying 6 nights as was!)

On the second day, I hired a rickshaw man for the day and "did" the sights of Jodhpur - including the Umaid Bhawan Palace, which is a huge monolithic palace built opposite the fort in Jod originally for the Maharaja and his family, but now converted into a 5 star hotel. Impressive building, but very annoying acess options - you cannot stand in front of the hotel to take a photo without one of the military style guys peeping a whistle at you and making you go back to the tourist area. I must say I got away with creeping round the perimeter fence without them noticing!!
After the palace, we went to a beautiful garden within which I was the only tourist- which was very nice - and only a few people came up to talk to me. One of whom was a lovely lady who cant of been much older than me, who asked me how many children I have (of course because im OLD I am assumed to have kids) so I say 3 and she laughes and indicates that she has 8 - I must have looked shocked because she gave me a huge cackle and a betel nut stained grin, and then a high five! Then wandered off cackling to herself. As you know kids=prestige in India.
Also in the park was a huge colony of grey monkeys - delightful.

After that, I asked the driver if he would stop at a cafe for me to eat - he took me straight to one which was very "authentic" Indian (not touristy) and to be fair, I did have the best curry ive tasted her so far. BUT...........

Afterwards, the rickshaw drove me to Jaswant Thada which is a wonderful hill temple next to the fort. As I was looking around, I had a couple of rumbles in the jungle, and then towards the end, I thought....im going to have to make a dash.... So in a sweaty shaky state I DASHED to the loos - and thank god there was a western style loo - amazingly quite clean. BOY OH BOY. One minor problem...no loo roll, no tissues and no hope!! SO I put some creative use to the tourist leaflet I had been given earlier in the day!! SAY NO MORE :) (that was about all it was useful for!)

The with further pain and trouble, I manfully completed my circuit for the day which ended in Mehrangarh Fort at the top of the hill over my hotel. I even walked down back to the hotel without falling down (its super steep) The fort was well worth it though - spectacular views over the whole of Jodhpur, which is painted mostly in blue- so a very special sight.

Yesterday was pretty much a day of chilling, I went with a Kiwi friend to do some shopping and wandered the streets all day. I thought I was cured, and so had another Thali for lunch/dinner, but realised that it was a bad move just as I was walking up the hill back to the hotel. To say I climbed the hill in double time would be an underestimation!!

My last night in Jod was spent with my mate and with the kids -really lovely! I was very sorry to leave. But there was a train to catch this morning (early) to Jaisalmer. As I rickshawed through the city at 6am with its cows lounging in the streets and people just getting up to go to the mosques - which were blaring out thier prayers on loudspeakers, I felt sad and queezy! I did cheer up though when I spotted a hotel called "Hotel DOOM" and also a gents trouser shop called "Bum Chums!!!!!!!"

Today was the first time I have been on a sleeper trian - and it was quite an interesting one. I was in quite a posh class (second) and even so, I had to fold myself and my two HUGE bags into one small top bunk. I only managed to severly kick the poor slight Japanese girl in the lower bunk once....in the eye......oops

Anyway, after MUCH shuffling and huffing I managed to get into some semblance of comfort and promptly fell asleep. Woke up in Jaisalmer, got a rickshaw to the hotel and then here I am. Touch wood stomach is a bit better (Ive just had a big lunch, and its still inside me!!)

The hotel which I randomly chose from the book for its novelty name (HOTEL PLEASURE) os actually far from it (but then, I have been spoilt the last week) I am going to see how it goes then maybe move tomorrow or the next day. Looking forward to exploring.

Talk to you soon

Just a short note

Well, made it to Jhodpur yesterday, and have, since then, been doing nothing! Dug myself out of the hotel a while ago to come and do emails and things.

After I left you a day or two ago, I went for my sunset cruise on Lake Picola in Udai - and it was monumentally beautiful, and very moving. Very glad I did it. I now realise why Udaipur is SO famous -to look back at it from the lake was really wonderful.

Yesterdays bus was a step up from previous ones - very plush - it even had beds in the top of the bus to enable people to sleep if they wanted (I assume this is for the overnight busses - though I cant imagine sleeping the way they drive!) Arrival was a bit daunting with rickshaw drivers jumping up into the bus through the windows to solicit a passenger, and then almost fighting each other for clients. Mind you, like everything in India, its all a massive drama over day to day events.

I found that the hotel I had booked into was at the top of a very steep and deceptive hill that rickshaws couldnt make (it is very very nice though) and so I had to bribe the rickshaw driver to carry all my stuff up the hill. hahah!

At first look, Jhodpur is quite interesting - a maze of tiny streets and quite old fashioned still. Its certainly warmer here than in Udai. I have not really explored as yet, but the hotel is directly under the fort, which is the main attraction of the city - and its beauuuuutiful. Last night, the sun set, and from the roof terrace of the hotel, I could see the whole city getting ready for bed. The city here is mostly painted a pale shade of blue - and it looks really wonderful bathed in the evening light. Small smoke plumes curling upwards, and hundreds of little tweeting birdies flocking over the rooftops. The milk man wandering the streets blowing his huge trombone like horn every now and again. Also the kids who live at the hotel were playing with tiny helium ballons on very long strings - so the coloured ballons were floating above the rooftops and looking really romantic. I love this place for visual delights.

Anyway, im hank-marvin, so Im off to find some dinner now.

Toblerone

Well hello all again,

Im still in Udaipur- its my last day today, so im tying up a few loose ends and also packing for the bus to Jodhpur tomorrow. Since we last talked, Ive been busy as a little bee. Im chomping on a toblerone of all things - the nice cyber caff man just gave it to me because the computers were playing up! Obviously knows how to keep me happy!!

After I finished here a couple of days ago,I headed on out for an afternoons sightseeing around Udai. Firstly I went to the magnificent City Palace, which dominates the skyline here. Built by Udai Singh, the first Maharaja in this neck of the woods, this is a still very impressive building. It rises like a cream merangue out of the top of the city- and looking round it is like going back in time. Its still inhabited by the current Maharaja, so you cannot run amok, but still, its surprising and massive! Ill show you some photos once I get that bit sorted!! Beautiful!

Next was the Jag Mandir temple, which is in the centre of the tourist area. Its elephant clad steps lead up to a wonderful temple with a large central shrine and several others. I met a young man in the temple who talked me through it in a very informative way. Worth a couple of rupees. The carvings on the temple were astounding - rising about 10 metres from the ground, they were SO intricately carved - you might miss something without someone to point things out to you. Also he showed me some bells at the top, which signify the temple is a working worship place.

After that I did boring stuff and went to the mobile phone shop. Got my indian mobile sorted.

Yesterday I had a marathon day sightseeing by Autorickshaw in and out of Udaipur. The hotel booked me an ace driver for the whole day (Called Billu with a lovely rickshaw covered in Hearts!) to take me all over the city and wait for me while I was sightseeing. He spoke perfect English and knew lots of the less hassle-y less tourist-y spots about town.

First we went to a huge Jain temple where I was the only person there apart from orange clad monks..all chanting. Magic! I was even allowed to take photos (I am always hesitant mind, as I feel a bit intrusive)

Then trollied off to a cemetary for the Maharaja's and Maharini's which was filled with huge stone monuments to each person. The guide took me around and told me stories of the people there - and also showed me where they carry out the open cremations which was interesting. He also showed me a shrine for an old maharaja who is said to help childless couples - the shrine was decked with miniture cots - meant to signify the babies born because of him! Very interesting tour.

Billu whizzed me off to a puppet museum which was I must admit the low point of the day! A few halls stuffed with scary ancient puppets from all over the world, and then a very flea ridden puppet show at the end. The best bit of that was when I left, I managed to walk into a room where there was an old man making puppet faces - beautiful carving. AND...he DIDNT try and sell me anything! Like a breath of fresh air! hurray!

After that, we headed outside of the city to a formal gardens created for the ladies of the court (from the city palace) which was really bizarre I must say. The gardens were formal English type gardens with playing fountains and lots of lush greenery. In the centre there was a courtyard with a lovely big pond in it, and beyond that, was a building with a museum in it...a VERY strange museum filled with pickled snakes and strange interactive exhibitions covered in dust. The best bit was a sort of life size muscle mannequin which was half a naked lady with skin on, and half just muscles (without skin), but it looked like it was plaster and it had been dropped...so it was crumbling and looking really freaky!! I gave it a wide berth!

Next Billu whizzed me out of the city to one of the most peaceful places I have been yet - Tiger lake. A beautiful unspoilt expanse of a natural lake, where Tigers are said to come to drink...well maybe...! It was wonderful - we sat on the edge and chilled for a bit. Billu told me about his family and his (arranged) marriage. He is a good man!

After that I got taken to a CULTURE village, which has been set up by Rajisthan tourism to show us idiotic tourists what houses are like in the real world. There are traditionally built houses from several states of Rajisthan, and displays of traditional crafts and things. The Idea is laudable - a sort of ethinographic museum - but unfortunately it turned out to be a bit of a lame duck. Not helped by the fact that the guy showing me around STUNK of booze and kept stumbling about...also decided to read my palm and my forehead (!) - apparently Im going to get lucky in 2007 and earn/mke LOADS of money......Better start playing the lottery. Then I was trollied past a MILLION craft producers, who were genuinely making the goods in front of you, and also MUCH cheaper than in town - but it took nerves of steel to get away!!

After a rest in a caff We headed up to the famous Monsoon Palace- which is at the top of the highest peak around Udai. for the sunset. The palace itself is surrounded by a wildlife national park area which is said to have 6 resident leopards. Billu said he has seen 2 lots here, but today I was unlucky! The Palace is crumbling, but the views were stupendous! I watched the sunset and wondered as hundreds of swifts got all overexcited at sundown - I think the insects must have been going up - but the view and the noise! Wonderful!

Today is Grans funeral back in blighty, so I have started my day a little later. I plan to go on a sunset boat cruise at 5pm and think about her out there on the lake. I think she would like that. It roughly co-ordinates with the time in the UK at the time of the service.

Talk to you again soon....

Oh Happy Dayyyyyyyy

Todays internet cafe has Christian evangelical music blaring out. Jesus walks today.

Anyway, along with Jesus, Ive been walking alot too!

Where, did I leave you last time? Ah in Pushkar. Well, after I left the internet cafe, I headed for my circuit walk around the town of Pushkar -which is around the sacred lake, taking in several temples along the route. Its a devotional walk, so along the way, it was common to see pilgrimes in full prostration, and also hundreds of monks, swami's and devout people taking the whole day visting all the temples enroute. I had a bit of a hairy moment when I had to run the gambut of a whole street of snake charmers, all thrusting king cobra's in my face (shouting" no poison no poison") You all know how much I love snakes.....nooooooooottttt.

The climax of the walk is the Bhrama temple just before the Mela and fair. As you can imagine, this was absolutely packed to the gills with people. I spent about half an hour balanced precariously on the steps to the temple waiting to get in (being shoved and prodded) only to be slightly dissapointed by the big plastic picture of Bhrama. Obviously the pilgrimes loved it though... they were all but fainting with excitement.

That night I had dinner with the manager of the camp - who is Mr-super-cool-slick from Delhi - who proceeded to tell me that he is getting married soon to his arranged bride. Apparently he had a love match, but they had a row and split up, so as a plan B he got his family to arrange a marriage too. A looming wedding didn't put him off asking me out for a date though!! (to a Bollywood movie when I get back to Delhi)

A word about Indian Men....they LOVE westerners, and especially larger ladies........ So far I have had a marriage proposal, and lots more unmentionable proposals.... They say "you are SO FAT" as a compliment (honest!!) and then proceed to follow you like puppies. The best compliment/insult I have had is "do you like to drink butter????" I thought it was merely a fat remark, but my Aussie friend told me it was to do with stamina in the bedroom - apparently you are meant to drink butter and milk on your wedding night.... ha ha!!!

Anyway, Im getting off the point of my reporting.....

After Pushkar, I descended to Ajmer, which is the little town at the bottom of the mountain which is a bit non descript except for being a major religious centre for Muslims and Hindu Jain people - as there are major temples for both sects in the town.

I was staying at a most charming place called Badnor house - which is run by the terribly aristocratic Badnor family. These people have been here for generations, and have strong links with the Raj and the UK. They are a very wealthy family who have a minor stately home in the city, two rooms of which they let out to tourists. I had the "generals suite" which was Sunny Badnors great grandfathers own suite - consisting of a grand circular bedroom, a dressing room, and an ensuite bathroom with an Indian loo as well as a western loo. Very nice. The house was maintained by a small army of wallah's...including Absters own ancient retainer - who wobbly-ly brought me tea and biscuits in fine bone china at every given moment. His wrinkly face lighting up when I came up with another of my crap Hindi phrases (yes, im trying to learn it!!)

Sunny is an urbane photo journalist and knows everyone in the city. He has a wife and two little boys. Also the grandparents live at the house, aristocratic and proud Ragu and his ladylike wife Lucky - a charming family all together. I knew immediately that I would get on with the family when Sunny picked me up, and he was blaring the theme tune to "Dirty Dancing" out of his little car!!!! Apparently its his favourite film! YAY!!!

Throughout my stay, the family were very welcoming, and the house is a total delight- massive and very peaceful. I had my own little courtyard filled with Bourgonvillia and stripey Indian Squirrels!

In Ajmer, I had a full day of visiting the temples etc. It was the full moon, which is apparently very important in the Muslim calendar, as well as the Hindu, so Ajmer was also experiencing many people visiting.

The first place I visited was the Jain Red temple, which non-jain people are not allowed into the main section, but you can visit the magnificent chapel where the Jains have constructed a HUGE sculpture of the universe according to them....in GOLD!!! It is a gobsmacking sight - hundreds of figures, small elephants, tigers and other animals, boats, buildings and also lots suspended from the ceiling ( this is heaven!) wonderful. I must say, I also loved taking pictures of the people looking at it - really impoverished people wondering at a room of gold!
I did also have a look at the main temple through a fence - looked amazing - with lifesize marble elephants, and lots of amazing buildings (I did get some sneaky photos.....)

I then proceeded through the bazaar to the Muslim citadel - Dagargh. The traders on the street started selling muslim skull caps, inscense, and flowers and special cloths to leave as offerings. About halfway up the street, I covered my head so as not to make any trouble!

The Dagargh is a fascinating place, apparently its second only to Mecca in importance for the Muslim people. You walk through these huge fortified gold doors into the inner sanctum - which is filled with pilgrims and people bathing in holy water. Also lots of people praying and holding onto the windows of the central mosque area. In the mosque in the middle you can visit and pay your respects to Allah, but it was SOOOO busy, I didnt even try.... I was happy to wander around and look at the people - all facing the centre - some prostrate - all praying. I did feel a little intrusive...until I met a man who asked me if I was Muslim because he has a son in Leicester who needs a wife!! har har!!! When I said I was Methodist/C of E he looked askance, and settled for a photo with me!!!!

I then hurtled through the packed bazar on a motorickshaw to a restaurant for lunch. This is how good my Hindi is.....I thought I ordered curry and naan bread....I got TWO portions of Chips and a green salad!!!!!!!!!!! I ate them anyway!!

As well as visiting the temples in Ajmer, I was lucky enough to visit the "Eton of India" which is Mayo Boys school. A MAGNIFICENT school built in acres of land in Ajmer - built originally for the Royal princes and sons of the Marharaja's this college is now still schooling some of the most important young men in India. Its a very privilaged boarding school. Both Sunny and Vishal attended the school - as well as Ragu, who also taught there throughout his working life, and now is on the board of governers.

The main building of the school is like a palace with a Big Ben coming out of the top - beautiful old English architecture. Really worth a visit.

I also visited Mayo girls school, which, if a little less grand (its only 18 years old, compared to the boys, which is over 50 years old) has just as high accolades and standards. I went to tea with the head mistress, who was absolutely lovely, and very forward thinking - absolutely right on for the future of women in India, in a constructive and cool way. Anyway, by the end of the visit, she had offered me a teaching post....for English and Drama...commencing in April for a month or so...including board (at a boarding house as a house mistress!!) Which would be very cool. Ill have to get myself together though!! har har. Got to see how things go.

Yesterday was the bus ride to Udaipur. From Ajmer this takes about 6/7 hours. I opted for a DELUX bus, which costs an additional 50p compared to the normal busses. that 50p buys you a faster air conditioned bus, your own waiting room (though not loo's) and a proper seat rather than a bench. The whole journey cost me about 2pounds10p. not bad for 7 hours. The journey went without hitch (another one of the close your eyes and hope for the best situations) except when we nearly killed a motor cyclist....we didnt though, so it was ok!!

On arrival in Udaipur, it was after dark, so I latched onto another couple of Aussie travellers (there seem to be a lot around at the mo!) and followed them to thier hotel on a moto. Checked into a very decent room (fan, double bed, ensute with western loo) for about 1 pound a night including breakfast. Noice! On the way to the hotel, out of the neon clad streets, I spotted a beautiful lumbering elephant wandering down the street!!!! my first ever REAL elephant! I got SOOOOO excited.

Anyway, thats all for now - off to explore the city a bit more now. Ive got a few days here, so I can afford time to do some admin...got to sort out my indian mobile number and things.

Talk to you again soon.

Vishnu-arama

Well, glad I managed to make it to an internet cafe today, I think I would have bust with excitement before long - Ive got so much to tell you!!

Im sitting on the Ghats of Pushkar (well nearly) in a cafe which seems to be Vishnu (that is the Blue Hindi elephant faced god) themed. The guy is wafting insense and giving me a stream of ginger tea. Its all very heavenly.

After I left you all last, I went on an adventure around Delhi with Mary Guru in a beat up old Ambassedor taxi. The whole thing was quite...

Hang on a minute....a massive black mouse just ran across the floor of the internet cafe - Id better tell the man (and hitch up my skirts.)....

As I was saying.... The whole drive around Delhi was very mysterious - the smog in the city gives everything this sort of misty dreamlike appearance -and huge buildings can suddenly appear out of the miasma. Guru and I cruised around the shopping areas (I was hoping to buy some clothes), but they were all shut due to the strike, and some of the roads were being closed by the police to avoid the demos. We cruised past a peaceful protest which consisted of people sitting around on the ground and someone shouting through a loadspeaker. Later there were pictures in the paper of the demo's getting out of hand and people burning effigies of government officials and also conducting mock funerals!

Anyway, Guru got bored, and so I dropped her off and set off for a day sightseeing instead. Saw the India gate, which is a little like the Arc du Triomphe (sp??) in Gay Paris. From this leads a long wide boulevard to the Presidents house, and the government buildings...which are HUGE magnificent pillared edifices either side of this massive ornimental roundabout. They appeared out of the gloom with some majesty.
The I trollied off to one of the large Hindu temple complexes, which had separate temples for all the Hindu gods. I liked Shiva best as she is riding a tiger! At the temple, there were life size marble sculptures of elephants, sacred cows and other wild animals. Would love to have shown you some pics, but I wasnt allowed to take any - sacred place and all!

Then towards the end of the day, I managed to spot a shop which still was open, and so I got measured up for some clothes. I have ordered 3 Salwar Kameez (Indian trouser suits) to be made for me and sent to Vishal's for when I get back to Delhi in a month.

Dinner with the family, and then early to bed, as I had to rise early (4am) to get the train to Ajmer to go to Pushkar.

At 5am, my driver and his beat up Ambassedor arrived - with only one headlight working -to run the gambut of the traffic. After a ride where I just closed my eyes and hoped for the best, I arrived at Delhi station. Once again, I braced myself for a shock - Delhi station is renowned for being chaos and terrifying. But, once again, I must say it wasnt half as bad as I was expecting. The station was heaving with people and luggage, both tourists and locals. The driver helped me to the carriage and my seat, and the train set off on time. I was in an airconditioned second class carriage, which, black windows, ripped brown leather seats, and general grime permitting, was a jolly nice ride! I sat next to an ancient indian lady who was really sweet and sleepy. The staff on board gave us newspapers and chai (tea) and lots of snacks - including hot pea and potato curry for breakfast - all included in the price.

After a smooth 8 hour journey through beautiful Indian countryside, we arrived in Ajmer. On the journey, I even braved the train toilets...twice...once in western style, and once in Indian style...and I can truely say they were no worse than UK train toilets.

In Ajmer I was met and whisked to Pushkar - about a half an hour away - to my luxury tented camp. On the road, there were lounging monkeys, and too many bizarre modes of transport to report- camels started to feature regularly!!

From the camp, I could already see the main show site called the Mela, and also the surrounding sand dunes, which are where the horse and camel traders do thier business. The scene was one of legends - hundreds, if not thousands of camels and people all milling about doing business. Men in bright turbans and ladies in groups in the most colourful sari's you could imagine.Children swarming on the tourists and the brightly coloured tinsel bedecked rickety fair ground rides. Food stalls, piles of cow pats drying, cooking implements and pots on sale in piles on the floor, and most of all, hundreds of people everywhere.

I set off straight away for a wander - the heat of the day already passed. Although it was difficult to take photos without people spotting you and coming to talk to you/sell you something...it was almost impossible to NOT get good pictures -everything seemed BEAUTIFUL! I walked around for about an hour, and as the sun was waning, I headed back to camp. I thought it wouldnt be too safe to be out after dark - shame though, as most of the fire shows and all that jazz happens after dark.

At camp, I sat jibbing at being female and vulnerable, when I met two aussie ladies, who said they were heading back into the town later, and I could join if I wanted...didnt need asking twice. Safety in numbers! We were driven by the camp jeep to the Mela, where they were having a "westerners dress up as an Indian bride competition" which was quite funny. They had found 6 gushing american girls and one really jibby french girl to do the thing! When they asked them the standard "Miss World" type questions, the Americans came up with "I love Rajisthan, oh my Gawd its sooooooooo great" type answers. I laughed when the French girl, when asked about Indian men said " I dont really like the facial hair, and I wouldnt marry one!!" Ha Ha! We didnt stay long enough to see if she won!!!

Nightime at the fair brings out all the fire dancers and more traders. Everything is bedecked in tinsel and neon, and ALL the stalls are blaring out LOUD Hindi music -and I mean loud!! I have been to raves which sound like a tea party in comparison!

We then got seriously lost in the sand dunes (it wanst me, I KNEW the way, but the Aussies were sure...I didnt like to say anything!) then got a camel cart back to the hotel! Nearly swayed off the back, but what an experience!!

Todays task is see the whole of Pushkar town and not just the festival. Im doing a tour of the sacred lakes and Ghats on foot...been a bit waylayed by the internet!

Lots of Swami's about and other monk types. This festival is also about when Bhrama dropped a lotus into the lake here as the place where he was to come to earth. Off to look for lotus's now.

Love you all. more to come soon....

India - I made it!

Well, looks like I made it!

After nearly 9 months of preparation and anticipation, I have finally landed in Delhi. At present, Im sitting in the office of my kind host Vishal (who runs Royal expeditions - DI's gound handler here in India) sorting out the rest of my exciting itinerary. I have been staying at Vishal's house with the family and three crazy (lovely) Australian Yoga teachers.

The flight from London was painless, although sitting next to a strange UK lecturer gentleman made for a little interest. He was coming to India to recruit students for Reading University business school. Seemed a little creepy to me, and I was a little suspicious of him, so I plugged in and pretended not to hear his wheezy snufflings next to me....

On arrival in Delhi, the baggage reclaim took on a surreal feeling, as they piped strange lift music through the polished white marble halls. The baggage carousel had only a few pieces of luggage on it (including mine) and the whole thing seemed a bit like the end of a game show, where you had to memorise everything passing by.....and the cuddly toy.

Anyway, then I trollied out towards the meet n greet area, and braced myself for a whole lot of mauling, shouting and pawing, which is totally what I was expecting. Only to be greeted with a few smiling people holding plackards with names on...and not another soul to be seen! Wierd. I was met like clockwork by a lovely driver who swished me through the city to Vishal's house.

Although it was 10 am here in Delhi, to me it was about 3am, and I was wasted - so the drive through the city seemed dreamlike. Saw my first (and second and third) sacred cow in the street. very pleased!

Even taking into account my hazyness, I still managed to notice how peaceful the city was, and that most of the shops were shut. On asking the driver about this, he told me that the people of the city centre have been protesting about the number of shops which are operating illegally (and this is about 2/3 of the shops in the city) meaning a large amount of traffic and confusion. The government then took the initiative to ask them all to shut and move to the suburbs - and if they dont, the shopkeeper will go to jail! Drastic action! Anyway, the shopkeepers are striking for a couple of days in protest. Meaning my initial introduction to Delhi is a place with peaceful streets. Lets see how long that lasts....

Yesterday at Vishal's house, we shared a lovely supper with the Aussie Yoga ladies and a family friend called Mary - or rather Guru - who is now a follower of a Sikh guru from the US. Apparently Mary first visited Vishal and his family when she was an accountant working at Meryll Lynch...she then embraced Yoga and Philosphy and took up with her Guru. She now wears a turban and all white robes....all the time. Vishal told us her story...laughing at the part when he mentioned that her "guru" used to be a customs official in Delhi airport, and that he made up a hybrid of Sikhism, which is ONLY followed in the US and UK. Also that female Sikhs do not wear turbans in India - only with this sect... Ahh my first of the India travelling crazies.

After supper of chapati, dahl and veg, I retired to bed early, and fell asleep listening to car and scooter horns and firecrackers still being let off after Diwali last week.

This morning brought bad news from the UK. Poor old gran passed away last night. Of course mum is in bits, but she has told me not to make moves to return home. Although its a big shock (I thought she was on the way to getting back on her feet) I think its been a long time coming. Also Mum and Dad were by her side when she went. I will be thinking of her.

Today is a sorting day, tomorrow I depart for Pushkar.

Will report more when I can.